February 25th 2010 10:45 am
[ Leave A Comment ]
- post FLIERS and more FLIERS EVERYWHERE - minimum a 10 mile radius of where your pet went missing - see Posters and Fliers Tips using the "five words, five seconds rule"
- ask postal workers and delivery personnel (UPS, Fed Ex, etc) to help distribute fliers and be on the lookout. taxi cabs, bus drivers, and children also make excellent spotters
- notify and send fliers to local VETS, SHELTERS, Humane societies, and Rescue organizations (esp breed specific if applicable)
- STAPLES stores will often make 100 free color copies for lost animals - a good black and white flier with clear picture may help manage expenses too
- place ads in your local NEWSPAPERS
- FindToto.com and/or PetAmberAlert.com will call neighbors in the area (for a fee)
- post online in classified Lost ads by state and city (see links below)
- check Found ads frequently because most sites do not automatically coordinate losts with founds
- also do a quick search at different sites to make sure your pet is NOT listed for Adoption or for Sale
Main National Lost and Found Search Sites:
Craigslist Pets and Lost&Found categories
K9 Amber Alert yahoo group that many rescuers cross post from
Petfinder.com place classified Lost ad and watch classified Found ads as well as avail. for adoption by state (*CAUTION*: if someone calls from "Petfinders" and offers to call local groups/vets for a fee, this is a SCAM and not associated with Petfinder.com)
Petharbor lists many (but not all) area shelters - you can register your lost pet into their database
**still have someone GO TO and check shelters at least every few days
Create an Emergency Website: learn how at FindRosie.com
Good Searching Tips:
Lost Dog Search
Missing Pet Network
Missing Pet Partnership at lostapet.org:
. . . Lost DOG Posters and Fliers - using the "five words, five seconds rule"
. . . lost DOG behaviour
. . . lost CAT behaviour
. . . Think Lost NOT Stray
additional National Lost and Found Sites:
Found and Lost Pets
Help Me Find my Pet
The Internet Lost and Found
Lost and Found Now
Lost and Pound
Lost Dogs Database
Lost Pets International
Missing Pet Network
The Pet Rescue
American Kennel Club Companion Animal Recovery Program for animals with tatoos or microchips
Find Toto will call neighbors in the area (for a fee)
International K9 Search and Rescue Services
National Dog Registry for dogs with tatoos
Pet Amber Alert will call neighbors in the area (for a fee)
Pet Detectives, Inc licensed private investigators coaching by phone, online, or on site search
Pet Hunters International certified pet detectives
Sherlock Bones commercial services
For Humane Trapping advice, see my Diary entry #3 below and Pictures in my photo album. If there has been a reliable sighting of your pet, traps can usually be obtained and set up by Animal Control Officers or Wildlife Managers. If they do not have traps available, check with local pest control places for HaveAHart traps or something similar. Just make sure it is large enough...
NOTE: if you have a bad experience with ANY of these sites, please notify me as I would like to keep this as user-friendly as possible. suggestions for additional links also appreciated.
February 25th 2010 10:30 am
[ Leave A Comment ]
Groups to Join: and send a message
Lost & Found - Dogsters & Catsters Unite To Help Find Missing Pets Here!
Tater's "Lets Help Find Missing Pets"
Specific Information on helping Lost/Stolen/Feral/Found/Stray Cats and Dogs and other Beloved Pets
Public Forums: click "Forums" above and post there. it may be helpful to list city and state in your thread title
Notify Dogsters in your area: ask local pals to be on the lookout for you! if they do not mind, maybe they can help you post FLIERS!
** try to Keep the Missing Pet's Page UPDATED including specifics about exact location last seen and CONTACT INFORMATION to the extent that you feel comfortable.
- go to your account and add "MISSING, LOST or STOLEN" as part of your name
- do not be shy about listing specifically how people can help
- you may also want to ask pals to help spread the word by CROSS-POSTING your page to their friends and family in the area. you can request this on your page, in forums, and/or groups.
- if you have a FLIER posted on your page or at a link, we found that many wanted to copy it and help spread fliers all over town especially to places they go during their normal routines (businesses, VETS, Pet stores, dog parks, grocery stores, etc).
*Note: Fliers copied off of your Dogster page usually do not print clearly. It may be helpful to put flier on an outside link and you can put that link on your page for pals to copy from, print, and share.
- don't forget that fliers can be faxed and emailed quickly esp to vets, shelters and rescue groups.
- we've even had a few Dogsters put fliers on their vehicles. Ha ha Aroooo!
Dogsters are pretty amazing most of the time!
Good Luck on your searches! Pmail me if ya have ANY questions.
February 24th 2010 12:18 pm
[ Leave A Comment ]
If there has been a reliable sighting of your pet, traps can usually be obtained and set up by Animal Control Officers or Wildlife Managers. If they do not have traps available, check with local pest control places for HaveAHart traps or something similar. Just make sure it is large enough...
TRAPPING ADVICE TO HELP WITH INJURED DOG from Corolla Fleeger, ACO
I wanted to provide some suggestions. I've trapped frightened scared dogs for several years and intensively while assisting in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina and Rita.
As the dog is injured, when you set the trap, ensure that you cover the trap so that the dog does not feel too exposed (especially after he is trapped) and also place soft bedding inside the trap so the dog does not step directly onto metal to get inside the trap. I would actually recommend utilizing materials from the surrounding area of where the trap is placed. If the dog is sleeping in a specific area that you are able to place the trap on level ground or near it, place it there and utilize material from around that surrounding to cover the bottom of the trap and even around the sides and top of the trap. I would actually recommend placing dirt from the area on the bottom of the trap that covers the metal. This also allows for comfort of the dog if he is trapped but the trap isn't checked every 4 hours or so. You might want to disguise the outside and top of the trap with vegetation from the area as well. This will also allow for some protection from the elements but also familiarity of the materials. I've enclosed pictures (CLICK HERE) to give you an example of traps that I set up for the dogs whom were more difficult to trap or more weary. Remember to test the trap a few times to ensure that the disguise and cover does not interfere with the trapping mechanism or the gate security.
As the dog may not be entirely familiar to his surroundings, I would suggest placing multiple traps close to the locations where he had been spotted. Place wet food or his favorite type of dog food that has liquid or oil with the food in the back of the trap and drizzle/trail some of it along the trap to the outside of the trap through the entrance of the trap. Also get another few cans and use the extra food to extend the path of drizzle or trail to better optimize smell and coverage.
Also, the best bait for dogs appears to be bacon. Please note that you want to check the traps frequently, especially if there are cats in the area as cats are typically the first animal you will trap. To keep some of the cats away, place Valerian root or catnip away from the trap and high up such as on a tree branch or on top of a wall. This may be more appealing to the cat than the dog food or bacon and detract the cat from the trap and optimize your chances of getting the dog. Place a trail of wet food or small bacon bits from about 4 feet from the entrance of the trap down a trail to the back of the inside of the trap. Place some sort of obstacle so the dog can not reach the food from the back of the trap and accidentally shake the trap to close without the dog inside the trap. Place a small heap inside the trap but about 3 inches from the edge of the outside of the trap. This provides a reward for the dog's curiousity. Trail a little more from there and on top of the trigger plate and continue it to the back corner of the trap where you place a large heap of the wet food and bacon. Orient that heap in relation to the corner of the side of the trap where the hook is for the trigger to the back gate. This side is more sensitive and more likely to close with the dog in the trap. You might also want to place some bacon pieces and wet food under the trap below the trigger/trip plate. This way, if the dog eats all the food without actually stepping on the trigger plate, he will be more inclined to search for the smell and would probably step on the trigger/trip plate and thereby trapping the dog.
Do not leave any sharp containers or cans in the trap.
I hope that some of this may assist you in the trapping of the dog in a timely and safe manner. If you have any question, please feel free to contact me at any time.
Disaster Services Responder
Humane Animal Trapper
Animal Control Officer
Suggestions from gs.com used to help FIND Duke Lost & Found in MA
* We need sightings to work with **most important**
* Traps, preferably 6 feet, need to be set.
* Carry baggies of hotdogs and leash AROUND the WAIST at all times.
* Some dogs head straight, others circle. MOST circle. Make the crate/trap so comfortable that you would want to stay in there!
*Emphasize to searchers/finders to CALL, and NOT TO LOSE SIGHT OF HIM and NOT TO APPROACH HIM.
*Once found, get down low, no quick movements. Relaxed posture. Calm tone of voice. Use soft wide slip lead (oh joy), no rattling chains or collars. Very few dogs get caught with a leash, that's why trap is preferred.
*Lost dogs are terrified of groups of people. They might hunker down in the grass, and not respond to anything, including another dog.
TRAPPING – HUMANE CAGE TRAPS
Animal Control Officers (ACOs) & others use “cage traps” in a variety of sizes to catch domestic & wild animals in a safe, humane manner. Check on availability before you need one. The cage front has a bi-fold type door which “locks” in an up/open position when trap is “set.” A “footplate” is located about 3/4 of the way into the cage. When stepped on, it releases a side rod, which allows the front door to quickly close on an angle, trapping the dog. If the proper size cage isn’t used, the door will attempt to close but might come down to rest on their rump instead. It will startle but not hurt. When the dog backs out and clears the door, it will spring shut.
Where to set the cage? A good spot is in the immediate area where you have one or more verified sightings. Don’t delay. Locate a resident or business owner who will let you set up the cage on their property, ideally using same areas where the dog has been seen. Choose “easy” access spots for monitoring, yet private - for the dog’s sake and to avoid prying eyes of children & adults. Ask an ACO to help you explain to people how the trap works and its importance to this rescue.
Established law sets minimum times required to check traps. Checking more frequently is highly recommended and necessary, especially in severe or cold weather. Be advised that area residents will not appreciate their pets being locked up in your cage.
Make sure the cage is on steady ground and doesn’t wobble.
Suggestions: Use wet dog food with a portion of: meatballs, roast beef, stinky cheese, hotdogs, etc. De-bone any meat you use, don’t risk someone’s dog choking. Don’t use cat food. It attracts too many felines as well as skunks, possums and raccoons. Precious time is wasted when a trap has "unwanted guests.” Set food at rear of trap on shallow plate. Hang a hotdog inside, from the top & near the rear. Put a few small bits of food outside trap leading inside. Don’t overload area outside trap with food, a common mistake. The goal is to entice a hungry dog into the cage. Put in a water bowl. Cages with a rear door option make it easier to change food & release unwanted guests.
Tip - Use handicap grabber tongs to reach/adjust items in cages. Dogs don’t like walking on wire grates. Using a towel, cover the bottom grates up to and over, but not under, the footplate. Do not have items sticking out the front entrance as they will jam, prevent the door from closing securely and make it possible for the dog to get out. Items to place inside: a section of the dog’s blanket, dog hair, toy, same items from other dog in house, owner’s used T-shirt or pillowcase. Anything familiar to use? Use scents/hair from another dog. Lost male dog? Use facecloth swiped with urine of female dog or one in heat.
Place a straight stick through the bars about 2 inches in front of the footplate and about 3 inches up, so the dog has to step over it, placing paw directly on footplate (adjust for dog’s size). Watch rod on side of cage. Cages are generally covered to protect the dog from sun, rain, chilling winds & snow. Camouflage with dark green or brown shower curtain, tarp or other sturdy cloth. A bale of straw can be pulled apart in blocks and used to insulate the trap and make it cozy. Cover most of cage except front door area. Position a few pine branches at the back end, but keep it open so dog can see through and food scent drifts out. Place small branches & twigs on top to weight it and give it a natural and “den-like” appearance. Toss leaves, not sticks, just inside the entrance over wire grates still exposed. Secure covers & branches so they don’t fall into entrance, jam the door or rod. Always test trap function.
Anyone who monitors the cage should be comfortable with releasing and/or re-setting the trap. If not, assign “duties.” List two names with phone numbers for “emergency” contacts on 8 x 11 paper. Put in protective sheet/Ziploc bag & secure to cage with twist ties.