Postings by Mulder

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Behavior & Training > Need Advice on Puppy!!
Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Thu Oct 16, '14 8:18am PST 
Fritz, you can have one of mine!!
Just pulled a pregnant GSD from the shelter here, and she delivered 4 puppers!
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» There has since been 2 posts. Last posting by Fritz, Sun 11:16 am

Behavior & Training > Ecollar training videos recommendations?
Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Fri Oct 10, '14 7:06am PST 
If you are going to use the e-collar, look up Lou Castle.

Specifically, look up his protocol for "crittering". You will need a willing participant to act as a decoy to do this correctly.
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» There has since been 0 posts. Last posting by Mulder, Oct 10 7:06 am


Behavior & Training > Need Advice on Puppy!!

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Sun Oct 5, '14 3:51am PST 
Regarding biting, jumping up on people, harassing your other dog:

Whenever one of these undesirable behaviors begin, gently lead her directly to her crate and leave her in there for 5-10 mins without contact. If she cries or fusses, leave her in the crate until she stops. Once her time is up, calmly let her out and resume normal interactions. If she persists, rinse and repeat crating process. Do not fuss or make a commotion leading her to the crate, do not scold, simply lead quietly and leave. She may have toys or treats in the crate, but what she must not get is interaction, contact, or acknowledgement from you until she has had a chance to settle and act calmly. You may want to leave a leash on her at all times when you have guests over or you plan to interact with your other dog, so you can quickly and quietly pick up the leash and lead her to the crate (dancing around her trying to snatch a collar or scruff is engaging, arousing, and will often amp up her already excited state of mind- the goal here is disacknowledgement and detachment, you want her to understand you don't want to be around her or give her attention when she does these unwanted behaviors).

Regarding destructive behavior and chewing:

Get a long line (15-30 feet) and find a nice empty field or park and let her burn off some steam. Just a walk doesn't cut it, you need to let her engage and feel enriched by her environment. Mental enrichment often is just as tiring to a dog as straight physical exercise, especially for your puppies who are still absorbing so much from the world around them. Let her sniff, let her explore, let her be a dog. Play games that play to her natural abilities. Fill an old sock with boiled chicken and hide it somewhere outside. Let her sniff it out and as a reward giver her some of the chicken and start over, gradually making the hiding places more difficult. Play hide and seek, have someone else hold your dog while you hide, and let the dog seek you out. Get an interactive toy to feed all of her meals out of, so she has to actually be engaging her food rather than simply consuming it. Once or twice a week replace a meal with a frozen raw chicken leg quarter or frozen raw pig foot, throw her outside with it and let her actually chew and work on her meals. Make life more engaging, puppies do these "undesirable" things because they are natural for them to do- allow them outlets to work out these natural tendencies in a way that benefits them and spares your furniture.

Regarding recall:

Put her on that long line I mentioned before and keep hold of the other end. Walk around your house, yard, or a field. Praise and reward any and all interest in you, even if you did not call to her to come, praise heavily when she does come when called. If you call and she does not come, reel her in on the line and get her to you- 100% of the time, no being lazy, she has no choice but to come and you must be consistent if you expect her to be. Play games that encourage natural interest in you. Puppies are very curious, and unless you have built yourself up to be more interesting to your puppy than its environment (you haven't), then the puppy is going to do what puppies do and pay attention to that which is immediately interesting to them. Get that boiled chicken out again and take your puppy into your back yard. Show the puppy you have food, then throw a small piece away from you (about 2-3 feet), and as soon as the puppy takes off to eat the food begin walking briskly away in the opposite direction. When the puppy realizes you have moved away and begins to chase you, rewards with a LARGE piece of food and praise lavishly. Repeat until you run out of food. Do not call the puppy to you at any point, allow them to come on their own, and jackpot reward when they do come. Again, you need to be the most interesting thing around them, build interest so they WANT to come to you. At not point should you EVER scold your puppy for coming to you, even if you are calling her away from doing something bad. IF she comes to you, regardless of the circumstances, she must ALWAYS be praised for returning to you. I don't care if she just slipped the lead and your blood is boiling because she ran off halfway up the street before finally returning to you, ALWAYS praise the return. Being pissed doesn't change the way your puppy processes information, she will not understand being scolded for running away, she will only understand being harassed for coming back. Think logically, not emotionally, if you are too riled up to praise, then do nothing but leash the dog back up and walk away, as at least then you have not damaged anything.

Regarding refusal to give up toys:

Trade her and put the release of the item on command. If she has a toy and you want it, get a better toy or food and offer it to her instead. The moment she drops the toy she has to get the traded object label the command ("drop" or "out", whatever you want) and immediately shove the other toy/food in her mouth. Rinse and repeat.
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» There has since been 4 posts. Last posting by Fritz, Sun 11:16 am


Behavior & Training > Leave it vs drop it

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Sat Aug 9, '14 5:45am PST 
If you teach "leave it" as a general sort of "kill switch" command, where it means stop EVERYTHING that you're doing and drop what you have, there's really no need to teach two separate commands.

That's more or less what I do with mine. "Leave it" means stop, drop, and wait for further instructions laugh out loud
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» There has since been 2 posts. Last posting by Nare, Aug 9 8:33 pm


Dog Health > Frontline Stopped Working...How Long Before I Can Apply Advantix?

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Fri Jul 11, '14 1:14am PST 
Wash the dog thoroughly in a soap-based shampoo (ideally just use Dawn dishsoap) and let the dog dry completely.

The soap strips all of the oils off the dog, including the chemicals.
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» There has since been 2 posts. Last posting by Murphy, Jul 21 11:21 pm

Service & Therapy Dogs > Service dog | blue pitbull | XXL Pitbull
Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Fri Jul 4, '14 8:02pm PST 
Quick question, are all you AmBull guys just buying the same web template off someone and spamming it ad nauseum, or was this what the first "American bully" website looked like and you are all just ripping the web design from it?

Because I have legitimately never seen an AmBull breeder page that didn't look EXACTLY like this.

Just curious.
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» There has since been 7 posts. Last posting by Crazy Sadie Lady, Aug 23 4:44 pm


Food & Nutrition > free feeding

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Fri Jun 20, '14 1:22am PST 
Lets be reasonable, your dogs are most likely not literally starving in-between feedings. Hungry I'm sure, but who wouldn't be at the end of a long day?

Free feeding is problematic. Most dogs will not self-regulate, especially after they had previously been on a schedule.

My advise would be to stop feeling bad for the dogs. If you are feeding them the correct amount of calories daily, then the "hunger" is just behavioral and your dogs aren't suffering.
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» There has since been 6 posts. Last posting by Lily, Sep 7 3:57 pm


Behavior & Training > Teaching Callie to be Less Protective?

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Mon Jun 16, '14 5:55pm PST 
Describe these "protective" behaviors. What exactly is he doing, what do you NOT like and what do you expect of him in these situations?
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» There has since been 0 posts. Last posting by Mulder, Jun 16 5:55 pm


Behavior & Training > Muzzle Trouble

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Mon Jun 16, '14 5:52pm PST 
Right, but by throwing a reactive dog into a group of unfamiliar, uncontrolled dogs you aren't desensitizing anything. You are running the risk of making things worse, AND putting other people's dogs at risk. Every dog has a threshold for reactivity- if yours is as bad as you say, none of the training you are attempting to do will even get through to him, because his mind will be pressured to focus on reacting to the other dogs around him.

Why can't you work on desensitizing outside the walls of the dog park? Work on impulse control, work on focus, use the barrier that the park is providing to you to keep all involved safe. Maybe take your other, non reactive dog to the park alone, talk to some of the people there, build relationships so that you can potentially ask one of these people to help you out with this in an environment that is more controlled, and more responsibly managed.
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» There has since been 1 post. Last posting by Risa W-FDM/MF RE RL1 CA CGC, Jun 17 4:11 am

Behavior & Training > Muzzle Trouble
Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Mon Jun 16, '14 6:08am PST 
Taking a reactive dog, leashed and or muzzled, into a dog park with a bunch of unfamiliar dogs is just about the worst thing I could possibly imagine for a reactive dog.

Consider a person who is afraid of the water, being thrown into the ocean with their hands tied behind their back with no oxygen mask. This is what you are doing to him.

Not only that, but it is very irresponsible to ask complete strangers, who likely are not more experienced than you are in terms of training or behavior, to put their dogs in the line of fire from a reactive dog who potential WILL back up his threats if pushed far enough (as you yourself have stated).

You mentioned a behaviorist in your other thread... why can't this person hook you up with people to train with? If they've been doing this for any length of time, I can't imagine they don't have a client base they can pull from and offer you SUPERVISED help in safer, more practical situations than this.
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» There has since been 3 posts. Last posting by Risa W-FDM/MF RE RL1 CA CGC, Jun 17 4:11 am

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