Postings by Mulder

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Food & Nutrition > Blue Buffalo
Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Wed May 13, '15 8:28pm PST 
Who cares.

Nestle left contaminated chicken jerky products on shelves for YEARS to kill pets before ever even acknowledging there might be a problem. Its still on shelves in many countries where they refused to even pull it.

They're all garbage.

ETA:

The issue is, they dont do food trials. They dont have nutritionists on board. Their formulation is their own, but they dont even package it themselves. The food trials are all done on YOUR pet

Also, which is it, they don't do food trials or they do, just not under a laboratory setting? Inconsistent. Also, foolish to assume they don't work with nutritionists. Basically all commercial dog foods work with vets and or nutritionists to some capacity, call Blue yourself and ask for names, they WILL give them to you... I know because I have asked smile Only the people who have their heads so deep in the sands of "certain big kibble brands that wont be named here" believe that people are literally just throwing random formulas into bags without ever consulting with nutrition professionals.

FYI, the issue under litigation right now with Blue isn't about the nutritional adequacy of their products. Its about the quality and sourcing of their ingredients, and their packaging/marketing claims. Which makes this whole post that much more confusing.
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» There has since been 0 posts. Last posting by Mulder, May 13 8:28 pm

Raw Food Diet > New to feeding dogs raw
Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Sun Apr 26, '15 7:41pm PST 
Wait, you did the entire meal as organs, and have never fed organ before? I'm not really understanding your post- 1 lb all organ meal, or you did 1 lb of 2.1 lbs (total) daily ration as organ?

Either way, yes, gut distress from way too much organ way too quickly. Generally speaking, you introduce one organ at a time, slowly over several days. You'll want to bust up that 1 lb of organ over the entire week, much smaller portions per meal. To further that, nearly 50% of the diet being organ is WAY too much. You need to shoot for about 10% total overall.

Also, even for wanting to gain weight, 2 lbs is a little high. For maintenance, a 70lb dog on average is only going to need about a lb and a half. You're doing 3% right now... generally speaking, I don't think you need to go that high unless the dog is extremely active/working and is not keeping wight, is still young, or is considerably underweight. If you're just trying to put a couple of extra lbs on him, feed the normal 2% for a while and adjust from there.
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» There has since been 2 posts. Last posting by Ginger, Apr 27 9:35 am


Behavior & Training > Crate Training/House Training an Adult Dog

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Thu Apr 23, '15 3:04pm PST 
Here's some tips:

Don't just throw food in the crate and let him get it. That's fine to start out with, to make a simple positive association with the crate, but eventually you're going to have to up the ante. Start by leading him into the crate (you can use a food lure here starting out if he wont go in willingly), but withhold the treat until he is completely in. Meaning he has to walk into that crate and wait (momentarily) to be rewarded. Eventually you may want to start attaching a command to it. It can be something simple, like "crate" or "house" or whatever you want, so long as it isn't something you're already using daily for something else (so as not to confuse with words that already likely have a meaning to him). From here, you can work on duration... going into the crate on command, and then waiting in there for 5 seconds before rewards... them 10 seconds... 30 seconds... several minutes, ect. Your goal here is to gradually build up to him being in there without fuss, but its going to have to start with some impulse control exercises like this. Once you can get him in there sitting for a few minutes with no drama, then you can start introducing things like special "crate only" toys/treats/chews, things he can, once comfortable in the crate, chew on or play with only while in the crate (and to keep him occupied while you are away on long shifts).

Here's a pretty good little video for you to watch.

Don't worry about the bowl exercise at the end, but the rest of it is a pretty good demonstration of how this works.

12 hours a couple of times a week should be doable for an adult dog. Ideally, on the weeks where you'll be gone of those long shifts for more days, if the budget allows, consider hiring someone to come in just to let him for a potty break halfway through the day. I'm sure there are dog walkers or sitters who offer a basic service like this, just a potty break.

Scheduled feeds are good, keep up with that. Perhaps consider a slightly smaller meal in the morning, less on his stomach, and compensate for a larger one at night. Don't worry about him not having food throughout the day... he will survive wink

But a good long-lasting, safe chew is a a good idea. Look into deer antlers, a stuffed and frozen kong, water buffalo horns, etc for things to entertain him during the day.
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» There has since been 1 post. Last posting by Toby, Apr 24 9:19 am


Dog Health > Body Condition Scoring-- is he too thin?

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Mon Apr 20, '15 9:47pm PST 
LOL!

Says the person who appears to own several obese dogs, at least one of which is morbidly so!

But here I am making assumptions from pictures, I guess.

Mulder
Licensed holder of some friggin common sense
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» There has since been 5 posts. Last posting by Koby, Apr 28 4:27 am


Behavior & Training > Multiple behaviour problems. Time for a change!

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Mon Apr 20, '15 7:02am PST 
I'll say this... do whatever you're comfortable with first and foremost... but conditioning them to the crate isn't all that hard, even for an adult dog.

Leaving the crate out for them without being locked in is a good idea. Feeding all of their meals and offering all of their water from the crate is another, classical conditioning. You can offer "special" treats and toys only in the crate, things that will make them eager to be in there. Once they become conditioned to the crate, its easier to work on leaving them in their without a meltdown.
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» There has since been 2 posts. Last posting by Toby, Apr 21 9:33 am

Behavior & Training > Multiple behaviour problems. Time for a change!
Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Sun Apr 19, '15 4:36pm PST 
Any particular reason you're not interested in crate training?
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» There has since been 4 posts. Last posting by Toby, Apr 21 9:33 am


Food & Nutrition > Rotators!!

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Thu Apr 16, '15 12:21pm PST 
Scooter, every dog is different. Many brands are similar enough from formula to formula that you can straight switch from one to another... I know this is something Fromm has advertised specifically for their diets, as do plenty of others.

My general feeling on the matter, is, if the food's protein/fat% and caloric density isn't varying much from formula to formula, then its usually not a big deal to switch cold turkey. If you're going from a moderate food to much richer formula, or you just know your dog is sensitive, then of course transition.

I never transition when I do raw, just straight from one protein to the next. Rarely do with kibble, only if I know I'm going to something extra heavy. Did that not too long ago with a Fromm to EVO switch... big jump, so I gave it a couple of days to transition.
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» There has since been 3 posts. Last posting by Trinity, May 14 6:40 pm


Raw Food Diet > New member

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Mon Apr 13, '15 6:52am PST 
Here, this spreadsheet might help you out:

clicky link

Organ meat is an essential part of the diet... you haven't listed exactly how much you're giving as treats, and I'm honestly not sure how dehydrating it affects the nutrient content, but the number you're going to get quoted is around 10% of the total diet, with at least 5% of that being liver. Keep in mind that heart is a muscle, not an organ, this doesn't count towards this.

If you're getting hard, light colored poops/constipation you probably are using too much bone. Obvious solution is to deduct some bone and add back in more muscle meat, but if the mixes you are getting are pre-ground, you can try adding in more of the veggies you are feeding. You don't really need fruit as a staple, I would personally ditch the apple for more leafy greens. LIGHTLY COOKED spinach, kale, bok choy, etc.
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» There has since been 2 posts. Last posting by Kody, Apr 14 12:30 am


Choosing the Right Dog > What's Your Favorite Designer Dog?

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Fri Apr 10, '15 12:49pm PST 
To be fair Heidi, Malinois and Dutchies are, in many circles, not really considered different breeds in terms of how they are bred. Lots of people in working circles interbreed them... if they come out brindle they are Dutches, fawn they are Mals. Yes, technically in the KC's eyes they are separate, but functionally as a breed they really aren't.

And on that note, I personally have no issue whatsoever with crossing breeds or breeding "mutts" IF there is a functional purpose behind it. If farmer Joe has two excellent herding dogs of no particular breed, and wants more excellent herding dogs, I doesn't bother me one bit if they breed those dogs (though I would be bothered if they didn't find the remaining puppies homes/ditched them). "Breeds" like lurcher, bandogs, eurohound, etc also do not bother me, as they too are bred for a function that they will most likely be utilized in (and again, provided the people breeding them have a plan as to where all of the resulting puppies will end up, working quality or not).
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» There has since been 6 posts. Last posting by Love Shack , Apr 12 9:37 am

Behavior & Training > Will this method work for training against leash reactivity?
Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Thu Apr 9, '15 5:29pm PST 
No way to make a recommendation without seeing how the dog reacts in person, but I will say this, barrier frustration is a very common thing that comes into play with many on-leash interactions.

It doesn't have to be fear based, as you've perhaps seen. Many dogs come from a place of extreme frustration with leash reactivity, and all of that over-the-top behavior is like an outgassing of said frustrations.

As a very general recommendation, I'd start cranking up the impulse control training. Do a lot of on-leash OB, start getting him used to the concept that non-compliance while on lead isn't an option, but also allow him outs so that frustration doesn't start building up and impacting his relationship with you. You can use play, other dogs, other people as a reinforcer here... IE, he has to do a calm sit-stay on lead around another dog for "x" amount of time, if he does, he's allowed off lead to go and play, etc.
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» There has since been 0 posts. Last posting by Mulder, Apr 9 5:29 pm

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