Postings by Hoyt

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Puppy Place > Edwards Training Poor Breeding
Hoyt

*Baby Blackdog*
 
 
Barked: Fri Apr 19, '13 6:53am PST 
One of the things I really liked about Hoyt's breeder was their admission that although they can offer health contracts and do their best to ensure they're breeding healthy dogs, that is no guarantee a dog will never have health problems. Breeders are not Gods, and as Sabi pointed out HD can pop up seemingly randomly in even the healthiest lines. It's the risk you take when you take responsibility over any living creature.

Not to mention all the variables that then go along with the actual raising of a living creature that could have caused everything the OP originally spoke of....

No one, and nothing living, is perfect. Although breeders and owners alike can keep their fingers crossed that that's what they'll end up with, stacking the odds in every way they possibly can, there is still no such guarantee.

It's imperative breeders be available so owners know what steps they can take next if the worst does arise. Pick a breeder that doesn't offer extended health "guarantees" and long term assistance and that's pretty much what you're stuck with. Pick one with the stipulation that you contact them with any problems and that's the route you need to take instead of just ranting about how they've done nothing on a dog forum.....give them a chance to do exactly what they promised to do when you bought the dog instead of just throwing them under the bus out of fear, anger, frustration etc. Most good breeders WANT to help in that situation because they truly care about the dogs they produce. It's on the owners to let them.
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» There has since been 17 posts. Last posting by Nare, Sep 9 10:43 am

Behavior & Training > Older, adopted dog questions
Hoyt

*Baby Blackdog*
 
 
Barked: Mon Apr 1, '13 9:35am PST 
If she's used to being outside she could just be adjusting to the temperature difference in the house. Our biggest guy spends quite a bit of time outside during the day year round and enjoys swimming in chilly, even icy, lakes and ponds.

He dislikes blankets/dog beds because they're just too hot for him and he prefers lounging in allways, breezeways and in front of doors because they tend to be draftier.

I suspect she'll blow coat on you at least once as her body makes the adjustment. It has nothing to do with the kennel space itself, animals simply adapt temperature wise when they live outside and when that changes it takes some time to adjust.
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» There has since been 0 posts. Last posting by Hoyt, Apr 1 9:35 am


Labrador Retriever > are lumps common among labs?

Hoyt

*Baby Blackdog*
 
 
Barked: Tue Dec 11, '12 12:28pm PST 
Guest - there is no way to venture a guess much less diagnose what a particular lump or bump on any dog may be.

The only way to sort that out would be to take the dog to a vet. I'm sorry that money is tight but it would be unethical to adopt the dog out until the lump has been deemed benign.
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» There has since been 1 post. Last posting by , Dec 16 7:41 am


Labrador Retriever > My three year old male is very confused...!

Hoyt

*Baby Blackdog*
 
 
Barked: Mon Dec 10, '12 1:54pm PST 
He doesn't sound confused or stupid at all. In fact, it sounds like he knows exactly what he's doing.

I would assume your German Shepherd pup *IS* indeed in heat. There aren't always obvious signs. You need to keep them separated to prevent them from breeding. By at least two doors if at all possible.


Is there some reason you have not neutered him by now?

Please tell me you plan to neuter him, spay her or both sometime in the very near future as keeping them both intact in the same house is absolutely going to drive him to the point of insanity.
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» There has since been 0 posts. Last posting by Hoyt, Dec 10 1:54 pm


Choosing the Right Dog > Pathfinder Goldens Auburn NH

Hoyt

*Baby Blackdog*
 
 
Barked: Fri Nov 30, '12 9:07am PST 
At first and quick glance just running through a handful this is what I would consider a decent Golden Retriever breeder who is actually breeding to maintain or better the breed itself:

http://topflightgoldenretrievers.com/index.asp?ID=3


All very similar to what we were looking for in a breeder before we ultimately settled on Hoyt's.
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» There has since been 9 posts. Last posting by Trigger, Dec 3 2:49 pm

Behavior & Training > Dangerous and capable. Severe aggression help.
Hoyt

*Baby Blackdog*
 
 
Barked: Fri Nov 23, '12 6:32am PST 
OP - seek qualified professional in person help and only qualified professional in person help!

Don't read a bunch more here on the internet from strangers who do not know you, your family situation or your actual dog. Skip all the blah blah blah that's may or may not have not anything to do with the ACTUAL solution to your problem and instead get to researching, finding and setting up an appointment with a qualified professional today!!!! cheer


When we had to find one for Hoyt we were able to do email and phone consults with the woman until we were able to meet her which cost us nothing. There was no one qualified enough locally, the closest was a couple hours away and scheduling took some time - in the meantime she did what she could to evaluate him through videos we sent her and long detailed explanations....again, all done for free. That got us a great jump on the process but in a much much more appropriate and responsible way.


Although I love loads of the Dogs on Dogster, when it came to confronting a very real issue we were having with Hoyt internet advice was never going to do.

However well meaning the forum mumbo jumbo is, I knew full well it was not going to fix any sort of real problem and in fact could make things even worse.
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» There has since been 33 posts. Last posting by Dogster HQ, Nov 26 11:18 am


Behavior & Training > Dogs that test their owners?

Hoyt

*Baby Blackdog*
 
 
Barked: Thu Jun 28, '12 11:05am PST 
"When I was posting in the other thread about corrections and why some dogs do look for them, I neglected to add that it is also about trust. Trust in you as a handler."

Hoyt has had a lot of trust in me lately...trust I'm not going to kick his rump into next week every five minutes when really, it would be very much deserved based on some of the crap he's been pulling lately.....party
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» There has since been 9 posts. Last posting by Tyler , Jul 3 4:52 pm


Behavior & Training > She is eating through her crate

Hoyt

*Baby Blackdog*
 
 
Barked: Thu Jun 28, '12 7:21am PST 
She's a 9 month old Lab mix if I remember right? You shouldn't be running with her just yet. Growth plates aren't closed for awhile yet, repetitive high impact exercise like running can do serious damage to bones and joints at this age.

Running around in a grassy dog park is great, but running along side you on the pavement or sidewalk should be held off on until she's about a year and a half old.


Many dogs assumed to have separation anxiety just because they're destructive or don't like the crate don't really have the actual disorder, they're just suffering from a case of extreme boredom or they were never properly introduced to the crate itself. An adolescent Labrador needs a tremendous amount of exercise both physical -and- mental. Much more so than most people assume. That's why shelters are literally overflowing with them, particularly ones at this stage. People assume as with most breeds that they need regular walks and the games of fetch in the backyard, not a couple of hours of intense training and exercise a day (or more) **combined with** mind challenging games throughout the day.

A tired out dog is one that'll be much more likely to tolerate sitting in a crate during the day. Tearing apart the house when you're gone can be a sign of separation anxiety, but it's also the trademark of a bored and/or merely untrained dog.

You can try a wire crate, but you need to really work on making it the greatest place on the planet. Feeding a portion of her meals in there (the rest can be hidden around the house for an excellent game of use your snoot!), offering only the best treats and toys in there, working on letting her go in and out of it and coming and going from the house for literally just seconds at a time will help reassure her you're coming back and teach her that she can curb whatever she is feeling without needing to resort to being destructive. Make sure you keep everything absolutely positive. Praise praise praise her for even sniffing around the outside of it, praise praise praise her if she goes inside, praise praise praise her if she relaxes inside of it while chewing on an rmb while you're home, praise praise praise her if you can shut the cage door even if only for a few seconds and with you sitting right there without having an extreme reaction...and on and on, you get the picture.

Make sure you're puppy proofing your house as well. Labradors are pretty slow to mature, so expect the antics to continue well into adulthood. My Trigger is 7 and is just now starting to slow down. Hoyt is nearing 2 and although he is a genius out in the field he's still a total jughead in the house. Many never learn to stay out of the trash, I'd find a new place to put it out of reach. Never expect a Lab will be able to resist the temptation, no matter how old or well trained. Window blinds are going to be seen as fair game to an adolescent Lab, as will the couch, kitchen cabinets, any and all paper products, loose carpeting, shoes, tables, beds etc. etc. etc. Kongs are boring unless they are filled with delicious frozen stinky meats/cheeses/fillers.


There is nothing a vet will be able to do other than drug her, which doesn't at all sound like what she needs. It would be a bandaid at best, if they'd even agree to do it. Most will take one look at her breed and age and send you home with a prescription for more stimulation in her life. At least the good ones will. That combined with some actual crate training I am very sure is all she needs.

If you're at all interested bird dog clubs are a great place to expel some of a Labrador's drive. Members would be more than happy to familiarize you with the breed and what they need to be happy and content members of a household -and- help you find appropriate and effective outlets to drain her drive. Pent up inherent drive can spell disaster for any owner. Being they are a sporting breed, many lines have so much get up and go it could make your head spin. Seeing as you got her from a shelter there is no way to tell if she's got hard core field lines in her blood. If she does you've really got your work cut out for you.



I've seen so many owners in your exact situation claim their dog was mentally unstable, suffering from separation anxiety, are unable to be satiated and exist calmly in the house "this dog doesn't have an off switch!!!!!"....well yeah, if compared to a shih tzu lol. I realize that many in that situation think they are doing enough, or even what they perceive to be more than enough. It can border offensive when someone suggests you're not doing enough or that a dogs behavioral problems are because of a lack of something you already believe you're offering plenty of. You have to be willing to open your mind to the possibility that this breed needs more. Some lines being bred to hunt literally all day long will demand that or make your life miserable if you don't.

***Dogs of that caliber manifest their frustration in exactly the ways you're mentioning here OP***

It isn't separation anxiety.

It isn't a mental dysfunction.

It is just what they were bred to be and many cannot stand sitting idle.


Short of putting the dog into a near coma no amount of drugs will subdue that drive.



If I were you I'd set a goal of 6 months. Throw 150% more into this. Double or triple the amount of physical and mental exercise you're offering her now - every single day. Work on correctly acclimating her to a crate and making it a better place. Work on coming and going while you're home and can intervene when you see her going over threshold. Continue offering up short and very positive obedience training session several times a day. Document your progress if that'll help. At the end of the 6 months I'd be willing to bet you'll see drastic improvement. I'd bet you'd see even minor improvement within a matter of days.

If you don't, that would be the time to consult a behaviorist (read - not a "trainer" but an actual qualified behaviorist - they are not the same things) who can maybe better help you identify what she needs or a new way to help retrain her to your comings and goings. Vet's are rarely educated in behavior and will not be able to help you with this.

Beyond that please give her time. She's only been with you a couple of weeks. That's not nearly enough time to bond or settle down into a solid routine.
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» There has since been 0 posts. Last posting by Hoyt, Jun 28 7:21 am


Raw Food Diet > Switching Puppies to Raw

Hoyt

*Baby Blackdog*
 
 
Barked: Wed May 2, '12 9:56am PST 
I've never heard anyone say 1-2 months for just bone in chicken for any dog...1-2 WEEKS though is pretty typical.



Two weeks unbalanced - or a lifetime on a subpar kibble? Many dogs are weaned right onto straight carbs and byproducts in a bag...by raw standards there is nothing balanced about that living on that either.
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» There has since been 2 posts. Last posting by Quinn Elijah, May 7 1:32 am

Puppy Place > Behavioral issues
Hoyt

*Baby Blackdog*
 
 
Barked: Wed May 2, '12 6:47am PST 
Did you do any research on the breed before you got him, because none of what you describe are behavioral issues in any way shape or form.

You're not a horrible dog owner, but everything you describe is very typical. Where did you get him from? (breeder, back yard breeder, petstore, rescue...)


As far as the crate issues, how did you acclimate him to it? How long is he left alone in one every day? The absolutely giant heavy duty metal crates I've bought my dogs didn't cost $100 so one concern I'd have is if you're buying one far too large for him, that could be where some of your housebreaking troubles are coming from too. Not that at 5 months old he should be housetrained, a lot of dogs aren't at that age, but a crate far too large could be part of your problem if you're spending that amount of money on just one. If it is too big it'll encourage him to use the other end of where he lays for a bathroom.

I'm also curious about the numerous obedience classes you referenced, what exactly did they entail? How did they teach you to train? Did you use any positive reinforcement, corrections? Was it just a puppy class? I know puppy classes here run 6-8 weeks so I'm kind of trying to clarify your timeline.


Chewing on everthing is normal for a dog this age of any breed. Supervision will prevent the chewing of anything inappropriate.

Still having accidents can be normal for a dog this age of any breed, especially if he's allowed any unsupervised time. When he's not in his crate or outside I'd leave him leashed to you. That way you can watch him closely. If he starts sniffing around you'll catch it, if he slips and has an accident you're there to take him outside immediately and positively reinforce where he's supposed to be going instead. What do you clean his accidents up with? Making sure it's an enzymatic cleaner will ensure he won't be able to sniff out those same old spots to encourage him to do it again.

Being "aggressive" for attention is normal for a dog this age of any breed. Take advantage of it to properly socialize him.

Jumping is also normal for a dog this age of any breed. Keep consistently working "off" and reinforcing when he responds appropriately and he'll pick it up soon enough.

Not having any sort of decent recall is also typical. I hate to burst your bubble but I hope don't expect him to ever be 100% reliable off leash. He's a beagle, it's simply not in them.
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» There has since been 4 posts. Last posting by Luna, May 2 6:28 pm

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