Postings by Mulder's Family

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Behavior & Training > 10 week old Puppy Keeps Me up All Nite
Vega and- Rigel

Mother and Son
 
 
Barked: Thu Jan 8, '15 6:11pm PST 
Going to agree with Moose, at 10 weeks you're still going to be getting up a lot.

At 12 weeks now, I'm lucky to get 5 straight hours out of Rigel. SOME nights me manages it all the way through, but not usually. I have to be extra careful with him too, as I originally paper trained him in the kennel with his siblings, so he's certain he can just pee on a free part in the crate if I'm not getting up fast enough. But honestly, anytime I hear a whimper, I'm up and he's out. I would NEVER scold or bang on the crate for a whimper... at this point you're just discouraging communication. Yes, sometimes they get wise and cry simply to be let out, but what you do then is put them on a leash, lead them to a SINGLE potty spot, and refuse any other freedom unless they go. If they don't, then its right back into the crate. Eventually they will catch on that going out and standing in a single spot in the cold isn't more fun than the crate and will let up.

Consistency is key. Yes its obnoxious to lose sleep, but again as Moose said... that's just having a young puppy.
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» There has since been 1 post. Last posting by Amber, Jan 9 9:30 am

Dog Health > Demodex Mange
Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Tue Jan 6, '15 6:33pm PST 
Generally speaking, small localized outbreaks will typically clear up on their own, without any special treatment.

When Ridley had a small outbreak on his face, the vet gave me some ointment (think it was goodwinol), and I rubbed Vit. E oil on it nightly. Hair grew back in very quickly, minimal issues.

A dog I adopted recently had a pretty bad generalized outbreak. She was initially treated at the shelter with ivermecticn, cephalexin, and ketoconazol. However, upon adoption, we realized she was pregnant and immediately pulled her off all meds. She still had live mites as of my acquisition of her, but after 3 months of literally not being able to giver her ANYTHING other than homeopathic remedies (vinegar baths, rubbing coconut oil/vit e on the skin, feeding coconut and fish oil, putting her on a probiotic, switching her on to raw, so on), the mites are gone and she's got significant hair growth where she once was bald.

So, ideally talk to your vet. That said, you can usually manage demodex with minimal medication, especially small outbreaks.
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» There has since been 0 posts. Last posting by Mulder, Jan 6 6:33 pm


Choosing the Right Dog > Anyone heard of Ot Vitosha or Kreative Kennels?

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Mon Jan 5, '15 6:01pm PST 
Haha, maybe. I also know a lot of trainers, a lot of people who work dogs, and a lot of breed enthusiasts. Mals and GSD people, while still different, often run in the same circles.

Ask me about English Setters and I could tell you nada wink
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» There has since been 1 post. Last posting by Destiny, Jan 7 9:50 pm


Food & Nutrition > Help finding food for St Bernard Puppy

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Fri Jan 2, '15 7:09pm PST 
Protein isn't what you need to be looking at, its the overall calcium % in the food, and the ratio of calcium to phosphorous. There have been a number of studies done now that have proven many times over that actual protein % does affect skeletal development on growing large breed dogs negatively, but excess dietary calcium CAN have a negative effect.

So, don't be deterred by high protein foods. If anything, the higher protein is encouraging better muscle mass development, which in turn is HELPING your puppy as he grows.

Look for foods that land somewhere between 1.2-1.6% calcium, and around 1% phosphorous. Dog Food Adviser, while not a perfect site, actually did come up with a very useful calculator to help you determine if cal/phos levels in your pup's food are appropriate: clicky link
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» There has since been 3 posts. Last posting by Heidi, Jan 3 5:38 am


Food & Nutrition > ORIJEN OR AUTHORITY or raw American bully having diarreah

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Fri Jan 2, '15 7:26am PST 
I would get a standard 8 oz measuring cup, and be more calculating with portions at feeding time.

I'd start him off at about 1 cup, 2 times a day (so 2 cups total a day) and work up from there if he needs more. My 80lb GSD eats 3 cups a day on Orijen, not a drop more or he starts gaining. See if that doesn't help with the diarrhea.
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» There has since been 0 posts. Last posting by Mulder, Jan 2 7:26 am

Choosing the Right Dog > Anyone heard of Ot Vitosha or Kreative Kennels?
Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Thu Jan 1, '15 6:31pm PST 
That's something to keep in mind, then. If there are no schutzhund clubs near you to participate in... will you actually go out of your way to train/compete?

I ask this not to be harsh, but for you ask yourself this honestly. There are many, many breeds that make very nice OB dogs that are active and can keep up with a busy lifestyle. Going right to a breed like the Malinois, who is NOT an easy starter dog for the novice trainer, isn't always a very good decision. Unless you KNOW serious training is endgame, I would think you'd be much happier with a GSD of appropriate lines or a softer breed.
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» There has since been 4 posts. Last posting by Destiny, Jan 7 9:50 pm


Choosing the Right Dog > Anyone heard of Ot Vitosha or Kreative Kennels?

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Thu Jan 1, '15 6:10pm PST 
Ot Vitosha is Ivan Balabanov's kennel, a very accomplished and talented trainer. He probably has some of the nicer working Mals in this country, but they are not really "beginner" dogs. If you've never done sport work before, I honestly wouldn't consider jumping right to a Mal, even if you do like the "on paper" breed description. If you MUST have a Mal, Ivan isn't a bad person to be talking to. Like I said, he's very accomplished, he knows his dogs and can give you good advise.

Kreative is a large scale breeding/brokering*** kennel. The quality you get is going to rely largely on the dog you choose. They have some very nice dogs, they have others that aren't worth near what they charge for them (their puppy pricing is astronomical considering you can get dogs from equally nice pedigrees OR import a puppy from the same sort of breedings for literally half the price). Basically, if you buy, be an informed buyer and research heavily on the sort of dog you want prior to purchase.

Just out of curiosity, have you visited any local sport clubs or talked to any trainers in your area? Probably something you should do NOW, before you invest in an actual dog for this sort of work.

*** ETA: "brokering" isn't really the word I want to use here... trying to think of a better way to put it. Maybe "flipper", buys/imports dogs and resells them.
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» There has since been 6 posts. Last posting by Destiny, Jan 7 9:50 pm


Food & Nutrition > ORIJEN OR AUTHORITY or raw American bully having diarreah

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Thu Jan 1, '15 5:55pm PST 
Orijen is great, raw is great, really its going to come down to what YOU want to feed and what you're the most comfortable doing. Commercial raw is easy to prep but expensive, home-made is cheap but much more work and time intensive. Orijen is a great kibble IF your dog does well on it.

The fist question I would ask, of course, is... how much does your dog weigh and how much are you feeding him?

The overwhelming majority of the time people see diarrhea on rich foods like Orijen is because they are over feeding it.
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» There has since been 3 posts. Last posting by Mulder, Jan 2 7:26 am


Raw Food Diet > Interested in Switching...

Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Thu Jan 1, '15 7:12am PST 
Ignore Jasper, they are breaking forum rules and most likely a Hills rep trying to plug their crummy kibble smile

Tripe is considered muscle for purposes of raw feeding, yes. Green tripe is preferable, bleached like you would find at the grocery store has little value nutritionally, especially considering you can find way cheaper cuts of meat.

Whole fish, as in truly whole inclusive of organs, would be considered a balanced meal in the the appropriate quantities. Otherwise, if its been gutted, you should consider it a RMB so long as it still contains bone.

As for egg... I'll be honest, I don't ever factor egg into my daily diets, but I would assume you would consider it muscle for these purposes? I find that most people are using them in more of a supplementary "other" category than as part of the muscle meat %. Unless of course you are feeding with shell included, in which case I would assume you'd factor in with bone as well, due to the cal/phos intake? Not really sure about eggs.

"Intense" supplementation is overstating a bit. If you are balancing the diet correctly, there really isn't much need to add heavy supplementation. At minimum, most people add some sort of fish oil supplement and vitamin E. Depending on how you are doing the diet, you may choose to add other supplements to compensate things you may be lacking in the diet.
Personally, I add several non-required supplements to my dog's meals, including Vitamin C, Glucosamine/Chondroiti/MSM and the like for joints, raw milk, coconut oil and the like.
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» There has since been 1 post. Last posting by Ember FDX, Jan 7 7:09 pm

Raw Food Diet > Saying hello...starting on the path to raw..
Mulder

Spooky Mulder
 
 
Barked: Wed Dec 31, '14 6:01am PST 
OP Jasper, PLEASE ignore other Jasper. They are a troll on this board who likes to come in spouting off bad facts about raw or healthy diets in an attempt to plug Science Diet.

Heading out now but I'll be back to reply to your questions more thoroughly later. In the mean time, people please keep reporting "other" Jasper confused
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» There has since been 1 post. Last posting by Ginger, Dec 31 3:48 pm

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