Postings by Ellie now at the Rainbow Bridg's Family

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Behavior & Training > Getting desperate
Cyril

1197114
 
 
Barked: Sun Oct 28, '12 8:57am PST 
Is she spayed, if so how old was she when it was done?

I wrote this for Victoria Stillwell's forum and it has helped a lot of owners toilet train their dogs.



How to toilet train your pup or adult dog.


It is very important to us humans for our dogs not to toilet in our homes but teaching a dog not to seems to be causing a lot of problems. It doesn't matter how young or old your dog is, they can still be toilet trained but you have to be very consistent, slip up once, and it will set your dog back.

First make sure you have several days free to concentrate on toilet training your dog, you need this to get it established for yourself and your dog. Dogs learn by being repetitive, miss and your dog goes backwards.

1. Never try to teach your dog to toilet on paper or pads.

Many dogs taught this way never learn to toilet outside because they have been taught it is ok to toilet inside, dogs don't generalise and don't understand that they can't toilet inside when there is no paper or pads.


2. Keep all outside doors closed while you are toilet training no matter how hot it is.

If you have the outside doors open your dog doesn't know where the house stops and the garden begins, this really does confuse your dog so all doors must be closed.


3. Always take your dog outside, never put him out while training him.

If you put your dog outside you can't see when he goes, if you can't see him go you can't tell him that is what you want him to do by giving him lots and lots and lots and lots of praise, party, make him feel is the best thing since sliced bread. Many give dogs treats but I prefer to use praise.

Puppies do a double wee, they go outside, you praise and bring them in only for your puppy to go on your lovely, white carpet, this is normal, with pups once they have gone and you have had a party, take him for a walk round the garden/yard to give him the chance to do the double wee.


4. Take him outside as soon as he wakes up

Dogs normally want to toilet when they wake up so take him outside and give him the chance to. This is for afternoon snoozes or anytime your dog sleeps.


5. Take him outside before and after he is fed.

Some dogs prefer to go before being fed, some after and some like to go before and after they have been fed.


6. Take him outside after a training or play session.

Often after a play or training session the dog relaxes and needs to toilet so give your dog the chance to do this by taking him outside as soon as these are over.


7. Take him outside ever 30/45 minutes for pups, every hour for adult dogs.

Pups like human babies are not developed enough to hold when they need to go, they have to release it, we have nappies on our babies but expect pups to know they have to go outside, they don't. We have to give them the chance to toilet where we want them to by taking them there at times that will suit their needs not ours. If you go over this time to finish a job you are doing and your dog toilets in the house, that is your fault not your dog's so roll up a newspaper and hit yourself over the head with it saying "I must take my dog out to toilet when he should go".


8. If your dog does go inside, put him outside before you clean up.

With many dogs or pups it won't matter if you clean up in front of them but with a sensitive dog it does. No matter how much we try if a dog toilets inside our body language changes, dogs pick up on this and think they have done something wrong, they haven't, they have not yet learnt to toilet outside. By putting the dog outside before we clean up, the dog doesn't get the same chance to think he has done wrong. Dogs that think they have done something wrong are harder to train. They will sometimes try to hide it or do it behind the furniture which you don’t want.


9. What to clean up with.

Never use normal household cleaners, most have ammonia in which encourages a dog to toilet in that spot again. Even though we can't smell the wee, our dogs can because they have a much better smell than we do. You have to take the smell away for the dog as well as us.

You can clean up with white vinegar or biological washing liquid or buy something for the job from a pet shop. They will all take the smell away for your dog which is very important when you are training your dog.

Some breeds are easier to train than others, some dogs are more excitable than others, some dogs are slow to pick things up like this, no matter how quick or slow your dog is it is very important to be consistent, only by being consistent will you succeed in teaching your dog to toilet outside and not in.

With pups remember that their bodies are not mature, they may not be capable of holding so don't expect them to. It is normal for a pup to go through the night even though they are not mature enough to hold, this is because their bodies, like ours, slows down when we are asleep. With very young pups, they will be clean and dry quicker if you get up during the night to take them outside to toilet, by stopping them from toileting in the house completely by taking them out, they don't get mixed messages.

If you have an adult rescue dog that isn’t toilet training you don’t know what has been tried in the past so treat this dog as not having any training and start at the beginning. Many are still taught to toilet on pads or newspaper, this will make it more difficult but can be done especially as you don’t know how they have been taught. Some maybe toilet trained but their time in rescue may have stopped this, this happens a lot, and of course there is stress, often a stressed dog will toilet inside for many reasons.

It isn't difficult to toilet train a dog or pup but does take a lot of work but well worth the effort when they are clean.
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» There has since been 24 posts. Last posting by Alva BH, Nov 3 6:15 am

Behavior & Training > barking and growling at other dogs
Bonnie

917256
 
 
Barked: Sun Oct 28, '12 8:47am PST 
###Her ears are always up and tail is always up as well. The only thing that makes it seem more aggression or protectiveness then play is the way she growls and lunges at the other dogs...simply because she never used to do that. She would normally just want to smell the other dogs and whatnot, then completely changed!###

From what you say she is on high allert, she isn't protecting you she is trying to protect herself, what is she like when off the lead?

When a dog is on a lead if they are anxious they can't run away which most dogs prefer to do so they have to make themselves bigger which ears and tail up usually is, I suspect she also stands taller as well.

Barking and growling is communication, it is like us talking and shouting when we are anxious, she could be telling the other dog to go away.

While she is in this mode her brain has shut down, she is in survivla mode and no matter what you do she won't learn, she needs to be calm to learn. BAT won't work if a dog is anxious only if calm and you need to find the distance from the other dog were she starts to tense up, go inside that area and she won't learn anything but practice the behaviour you don't want, the more she practices it the worse it will get.

I have solved this behaviour myself with several dogs and many more owners have, we just kept our dogs outside the area were they reacted, it is important that they see the other dog but not close enough to react. Gradually this distance will get smaller and smaller as she realises that she has nothing to fear and eventually she will be able to walk past other dogs without any problems. By working this way you will also be using BAT at times.

I was put off BAT when I offered Bonnie for a demonstration at a workshop, she barks and leaps around when she sees another dog when she is on the lead. No questions were asked about her, all I said what I have just said about her but was told she wasn't suitable, if it isn't suitable for this behaviour what is it suitable for? I do know why Bonnie behaves like this, she wasn't socialised as a puppy, she was 8 months old when I got her, she came into a house with 3 other dogs but hadn't learnt how to introduce herself to other dogs. I was going to go to this workshop but didn't see much point.
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» There has since been 10 posts. Last posting by Mika, Oct 30 5:21 am


Dog Health > Spaying and Neutering

Cyril

1197114
 
 
Barked: Sun Oct 28, '12 8:27am PST 
I have had a bitch and a dog that were neutered as pups, neither matured mentally, they were both puppies in adult bodies. Gracie was 17.5 years old when she went to the Rainbow Bridge and still behaved as a puppy, she did improve a lot after she came to me.

Cyril has been a nightmare, can you imagine a puppy brain in a Staffy body? He has improved a lot but that is training and not a mature brain. Even now he will be a puppy with my 3 girls who will put him in his place, his reaction to this is a very good example of puppy behaviour. He is nearly 4 years old and I am still trying to get him be clean in the house, he is fine if I am there but doesn't hold it if I am out, if he wants to go he goes, he doesn't understand that he should wait. Even when training him I am having to train like I do a puppy.

These sites may help:

http://niceorg.wordpress.com/2009/02/04/early-spay-and-neut er-causes-cancer/

http://www.caninesports.com/SNBehaviorBoneDataS napShot.pdf

http://www.associationofanimalbehaviorprofessionals.c om/effects_of_neutering.html

http://www.sheltieranch.com/articles /LongTermHealthEffectsOfSpayNeuterInDogs.pdf
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» There has since been 1 post. Last posting by , Oct 29 3:05 pm


Behavior & Training > This was on the TV in the UK, enjoy it.

Cyril

1197114
 
 
Barked: Fri Oct 26, '12 10:24am PST 
Why should it be squashed? It is a link for members to see and make their own minds up. Of course if others start to attack that is different but if everyone played nicely the thread shouldn't be squashed.
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» There has since been 77 posts. Last posting by Jackson Tan, Nov 10 1:44 am


Behavior & Training > This was on the TV in the UK, enjoy it.

Cyril

1197114
 
 
Barked: Fri Oct 26, '12 7:55am PST 
CM was on the Alan Titchmarsh show, Alan really put him on the spot, enjoy it.laugh out loud

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97lwtUkXjwQ
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» There has since been 80 posts. Last posting by Jackson Tan, Nov 10 1:44 am

Dog Health > Floating/Wetting Kibble
Merlin - Now at the- Rainbow Br

917248
 
 
Barked: Fri Oct 26, '12 7:47am PST 
I have been soaking my dogs kibble for about 15 years now, after I have fed my dogs I get the next feeds ready by adding water and soaking it. The food swells up before it goes in the stomach and my dogs think they are getting more food than they are.laugh out loud

Merlin my Greyhound was in the early stages of renal failure for a year, he never got dehydrated which my vets were delighted about. Merlin only went to the Rainbow Bridge because he couldn't live without another of my dogs Joe who went 6 weeks before Merlin.cry
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» There has since been 0 posts. Last posting by Merlin - Now at the Rainbow Br, Oct 26 7:47 am


Behavior & Training > Others (trainers) correcting your dog?

Cyril

1197114
 
 
Barked: Wed Oct 24, '12 7:20am PST 
###Cyril, I didn't quite understand this: "Everyone handles and interacts with a dog differently, for anyone other than the owner to correct the dog will just confuse him making him learn take a lot longer."

Why would this confuse the dog? If the dog is properly handled by the instructor and the owner repeats the proper handling after seeing how it is supposed to be done, why would it confuse the dog so much. My dogs don't get confused even though my bf handles them COMPLETELY wrong, letting them jump all over him at the door and lurch and pull when they walk. They don't do that for me.###

I am talking about training a dog, if someone takes your dog to teach him to do something, when the dog doesn’t do what they want they correct the dog. These days many people don’t physically correct dogs so that would confused the dog. If the owner did normally correct the dog the correction would be different because nobody does things the same, that can confuse a dog. We know how important being consistent is so 2 people training a dog the dog will take a lot longer to learn. I used to have 2 dogs, both my husband and I took them to training classes but didn’t bother which dog we were working worth, they took longer to understand what we were asking them to do, both were quick learners and became very obedient dogs.

Your dogs are not being trained by your bf, he is handling them, they will have him well sussed out and know what they can get away with, he will be consistent with what he does when he is interacting with them. You trained your dogs and were consistent with the training, they know they can’t get away with things with you as they can with your bf.

Does that make sense?

How do you get the tialic?
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» There has since been 1 post. Last posting by Dr. Watson, Oct 24 8:38 am


Behavior & Training > Others (trainers) correcting your dog?

Cyril

1197114
 
 
Barked: Tue Oct 23, '12 11:22am PST 
There is a difference in a trainer demonstrating something with your dog and taking them to do the training and correct your dog.

When I used to teach horse riding I would often get on someone's horse to demonstrate something but never corrected the horse. It helped the owner and the other clients see something being done on a horse that hadn't done it before.

When in a class situation owners are not as relaxed as they are at home, this can confuse the dog so they don't respond as they should, a trainer is more relaxed so get a better response from the dog. Everyone handles and interacts with a dog differently, for anyone other than the owner to correct the dog will just confuse him making him learn take a lot longer.
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» There has since been 4 posts. Last posting by Dr. Watson, Oct 24 8:38 am


Behavior & Training > Others (trainers) correcting your dog?

Cyril

1197114
 
 
Barked: Sat Oct 20, '12 1:14am PST 
Corrections is another of those words that can easily be misunderstood, to a lot of owners they see it as a lead pop, poke, kick etc. In order to train our dogs we need to understand how their brain works and how they learn.

I don't use the word "Correction" because of the different meanings it has to people, there is no such thing as purely positive training, even in this there is what is classed as corrections.

A trainer MUST be able to understand how a dog's brain works, any trainer that uses things like lead pops, pokes, heal kicks, alpha rolls etc does not undestand how a dog's brain works.

We need to put ourselves in our dog's position, this will help us understand our dogs. If we go to a country were they don't speak English how do we commumicate? If we want a cup of coffee we don't hit the waiter because he didn't understand what we were saying but owners will hit a dog for not understanding.

Lets take for example a puppy who consistantly jumps up and nips us, the puppy doesn't know he is doing wrong, he is just a pup doing what pups do but this behaviour isn't acceptable to us. We fold our arms and turn our back on the pup, YIPPEEE a game thinks the pups as he tries to get to the front of us to continue to jump up. Yes some pups will stop but to the pup there are other more interesting things to do.

For the pups that turning our backs on doesn't work, and there are so many of thoselaugh out loud How do we deal with the pup? Many owners get frustrated and start to hit the pup, some will stick a knee up, very dangerous as it can kill the pup, yes again these will eventually work but at what cost to the bonding.

The positive way is to walk out of the room, putting the pup out is giving the pup attention which we don't want to do. We walk out of the room, close the door, count to 10 then go back in again. You may have to do this quite a few times before the pup gets the idea that when he jumps up and nips he is punished by being left on his own. To a pup being left on his own is not what he wants, what he wants, our company has gone, that is a punishment even though it is one that doesn't do any damage either physically or mentally and it works. The pup's behaviour has been corrected.

I never could understand the need to lead pop, I have been told by many trainers who use old fashioned methods that it doesn't do any damage to the dog, wrong, it does, I have seen lead pops turn a dog into a quivering wreck waiting for the lead to pop. This dog didn't understand why the lead was popping, according to his owner he put tension on the end of the lead and was starting to pull. That is a training problem not a disobedient dog but the dog was punished for not being trained properly.

Dogs are creatures of habit, it is by developing the "Habit" that we get them to do what we want, if we want a dog to sit on command we teach it in one place, when they have it we reteach it somewhere else and continue to do this until the dog will sit every time we ask, we have developed a hapit of the dog sitting when whe say the word sit. If a dog puts tension on the lead and starts to pull, the dog has not been taught to walk on a loose lead properly so no need to pop the lead.

Dogs speak dog not English, nor do they think like us humans but we expect them to do both. Nobody is perfect, I do it at times, but when I do I roll up a newspaper and hit myself on the head with it, it is my fault not my dogs.naughty
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» There has since been 11 posts. Last posting by Dr. Watson, Oct 24 8:38 am

Dog Health > Scared
Cyril

1197114
 
 
Barked: Sat Oct 20, '12 12:45am PST 
I find that food like sardines, mackeral or tuna will kick start a dog to eat again, they are also very good for dogs which helps. Be careful when feeding them, if they are in spring water, oil or tomotoe sauce they ae fine, if in brine do not give it.
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» There has since been 8 posts. Last posting by The Troublesome 2 Kc & Cooper, Oct 21 1:41 pm

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