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Barked: Fri Mar 13, '09 9:33am PST


	This will be a thread where we can all share those little odds and ends that are good to know! REMOVING TREE SAP FROM FUR Hopefully this will save some of us from loosing clumps of our coats! Internet article: Quote: Tree sap can be extremely difficult to remove from hair. There are several methods to help in getting rid of this sticky problem. Tree sap can be extremely difficult to remove from any surface, but most especially from human or animal hair. The following advice may be of assistance should this pesky problem befall you. The key to tackling tough-to-remove tree sap from hair is to get it while it's fresh. As the sap droplets harden, they become increasingly difficult to get out. Also, it is important to let anything that is applied to the hair "sit" for an extended period of time. The longer that a product is applied to the sap, the better the chances will be of removing it. One method for removing tree sap from hair is to apply all-natural peanut butter to the sap. Oilier peanut butters tend to work better. Cover the area fully. Using a hair dryer or other heating device, apply warm heat to the peanut butter until it begins to soften. Then, using a straight-toothed comb, pull the softened peanut butter through the hair. Rinse out with hot water. Another method calls for the use of mayonnaise. The oils in the mayonnaise help to break down the sap's hard consistency, making it easier to remove. Allow the mayonnaise to sit on the area for several minutes, then rinse. Can use cooking oil, too. Pure soaps, such as Ivory, may also be of help. Work the area into a rich lather, rinse with warm water, and repeat until the sap has been removed. Many people swear by baking soda to remove sap. Apply the baking soda to a warm, damp rag and rub the affected area vigorously until the sap dissolves. Although it may dry out the hair dramatically, rubbing alcohol acts as a solvent to dissolve and break down tree sap. Users must be sure to invest in a moisturizing shampoo to use for several days afterward to counteract the drying effects that the alcohol may have. Ironically, pine oil can dramatically cut tree sap. This product can usually be found at natural food stores, homeopathy stores, or herbal retailers. Crisco or other shortenings can be applied and rinsed with hot water, while mostly all grease-cutting dish detergents will do the trick. Many retailers also offer products that are specifically designed to remove difficult substances. Examples include Goo-Gone, De-Solve It, and the Clay Bar. It is important to thoroughly read over any instructions associated with these products and to follow all directions to avoid sensitivities and reactions. It is important to be extremely careful when using any of these products. Although they are generally considered to be non-irritating in their normal uses, contact with the eyes should be aggressively avoided, and contact with the skin should be as limited as possible. The tender skin of the scalp may react to certain products. It may be best to consider doing a "spot test" on more resilient parts of the skin to first make sure that there are no allergies or reactions to any of the products. Unquote

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Barked: Sun Mar 15, '09 6:26am PST


	We all like to save money, so a trip to your medicine cabinet may be less expensive than a trip to your vet. Below is a list of common over-the-counter medications that can be used for dogs. Just BE SURE TO give your vet a quick call to be sure a human medicine will work for your specific dog and it's problem and to make sure the human medicine won't react badly with anything the dog is already taking. Direction for dogs only: A & D Ointment - for minor wounds, a thin coating 3-4 times a day for a week or so. Anbesol - for mouth pain, dab on liquid with swab 1-2 times a day for up to 2 days. Benadryl - antihistamine, 1 mg. per lb., every 6-8 hours, or 1 (one) 25 mg. tablet every 12 hours. Betadine Solution - antiseptic, use diluted with distilled water to the color of weak tea to wash wounds. Betadine Skin Cleanser - antiseptic liquid soap, use full strength to wash wounds. Bufferin - pain reliever, 10-25 mgs. per 2.2 lbs. (1 kg.), 2-3 times a day. Burow's Solution - antiseptic, moisten cotton ball and apply to wound. Caladryl - lotion for pain and itching, paint on sore area. Cortaid - anti-itch cream, apply 1-2 times a day as needed. Desitin - soothing ointment, rub on affected area. Dramamine - car sickness/ nausea, 2-4 mg. per lb., 3 times a day. Dulcolax - for constipation, 5-20 mg. tablet once a day, or 1/2 (one half) to 2 pediatric suppositories (10 mg.) once a day. Epsom Salts - for irritated/ itchy skin, 1 cup per gallon of water, soak affected area. Hypo Tears - eye lubricant, apply 4-12 times daily. Iodine - antiseptic, paint on wound. Ipecac Syrup - Emetic to promote vomiting, 1 teaspoon per 20 lbs., up to 3 teaspoons. Kaopectate - for diarrhea, 1/2 (one half) to 1 teaspoon per 5 lbs., to a max of 2 tablespoons every 8 hours. Lanacane - topical anesthetic, apply to sore area using gauze. Massengill Disposable Douche - odor neutralizer for skunk/body odor, 2 0z. per gallon of water soak 15 min., then bathe as usual. Metamucil (unflavored) - for constipation, 1 teaspoon per10-25 lbs., mixed in food. Neosporin - preventing wound infection, apply 3-4 times daily as needed. Pedialyte - for dehydration, mix 50/50 with water as much as dog wants. Pepcid AC - for vomiting, 5 mgs. per 10 lbs. 1-2 time a day. Pepto-Bismol - diarrhea/vomiting/nausea/indigestion, 1/2 (one half) to1 teaspoon per 5 lbs., to a max of 2 tablespoons up to 3 times a day or 1 tablet per 15 lbs. up to 3 times a day. Phillips' Milk of Magnesia - for constipation, 2-4 teaspoons per 5 lbs. every 6 hours. Preparation H - for sore anal area, apply up to 4 times daily. Robitussin Pediatric Cough Formula - cough suppressant, ASK YOUR VET. Solarcaine - topical pain reliever and anesthetic, apply to sore area 1-2 times a day for 2 days. Vicks VapoRub - for congestion, smear a small amount on pet's chin for easier breathing. Witch Hazel - astringent/antiseptic, dab on affected area.

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Barked: Sun Mar 15, '09 6:29am PST


	Converseley, the human medicine cabinet can contain POISON, so BEWARE. This is a list of a few bads from the ASPCA: NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammitory drugs), like ibuprofen and naproxen. The most common cause of pet poisoning in small animals. Anitdepressants - certain types can lead to serotonin syndrome, a condition marked by seizures, tremors,vocalization, disorientation, elevated heart rate, blood pressure and temperature, agitation. Acetaminophen - also known as Tylenol, Panadol and Paracetamol, etc., can damage red blood cells and interfere with the bodies ability to transport oxygen. Can cause liver damage. Methylphenidate (for ADHD) - can dangerously raise heart rate, blood pressure and temperature and cause seizures. Fluorouracil - anticancer drug, can be rapidly fatal, even when pet chews discarded cotton swabs used to apply the medicine. Isoniazid - used agains tuberculosis, can cause rapid onset of seizures that may lead to death. Pseudoephedrine - in OTC decongestants is a stimulant that can cause elevated heart rate, blood pressure and temperature and can cause seizures. Anti-diabetics - such as glipizide and glyburide, can cause a major drop in blood sugar levels pet, symptoms include disorientation, seizures and lack of coordination. Vitamin D derivatives - Even small exposures to vit. D analogues (similar but different chemical structure) like calcipotriene and calcitriol can cause life-threatening spikes in blood calcium levels in pets. Clinical signs of exposure are vomiting, loss of appetite, increased urination and thirst due to kidney failure. Signs often don't occur for more than after 24 hours of ingestion. Baclofen - a muscle relaxant, can lead to seizures, coma and death. Symptoms are depression, disorientation, vocalization.

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Barked: Mon Mar 16, '09 7:53am PST


	Hello again, Everypup! I've come across of a very important bit of advice from 'The Whole Dog Journal'. When you empty a bag of dog food, cut out and save the ingredient list, the guaranteed analysis and the date/code and write on it the date of the last meal used from that bag. This way you have a record, if this food should be recalled, of what your dog ate and when. Having the list of ingredients can also help you pinpoint something that may be causing an upset for an individual dog.

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Barked: Thu Mar 19, '09 4:49am PST


	I'd better not wait any longer to get this emergency remedy posted before somepup becomes SKUNKED. Here is a recipe for de-skunking sworn to by a Cairn owner who lives in a high-risk skunk area: Quote: 1 quart fresh hydrogen preoxide 1/4 cup baking soda 1 teaspoon liquid dish soap Mix all (it will foam) and pour on dog. Rub in. Rinse thoroughly. This my need to be repeated if the dog got the full hit. This recipe can NOT be pre-mixed and stored. Discard unused solution. Good luck! End quote AND I'm happy to be able bring you MORE de-skunking help from TUCKER: Here's the de-skunking recipe you requested - although I tend to do it by eye - the recipe below is pretty accurate. Deskunking Procedure The preparer should mix the ingredients below so that it forms a somewhat firm, paste-like consistency, and it should be mixed in a glass or plastic bowl or a cup - preferably not metal-based. NOTE: Do not allow your pup to lick this, as it may cause him/her to become nauseaus. Combine in bowl 1/4 cup baking soda 3-4 tablespoons hydrogen peroxide Mix shampoo in well to create loose paste - you may add more baking soda if it's too soupy. (Any shampoo is fine - liquid dish detergent may also be used.) Massage the paste on and in the skunked area, and it allow it to sit for 20-30 seconds (depending on the intensity of the spray, you can keep on for longer - use your own judgement - I usually give the area the sniff test right before rinsing.) Rinse well. Sniff again. Reapplication may be necessary - if so - repeat immediatly, as above. Hope this helps, Tessa!!! As I mentioned, this is an amazing home remedy - it's quick, inexpensive and the most effective I've come across - I've even had to use older baking soda in a pinch and it still retained its efficacy

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Barked: Fri Mar 20, '09 10:14am PST


	Something I wanted to share with you all, for if you move to a new house/apartment. We DIDN'T think to do this! I guess 'cause the house seemed really clean as it was. Look very closely in all the corners, under and in cabinets, behind refrigerators, hot waterheaters, oil heaters, crawlspaces (especially for cats), attic, garages, along the outside foundation, in sheds, etc., you get the idea, for POISON BAITS left behind by the previous people. We don't want to be chewing on these!

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Barked: Tue Mar 24, '09 7:34am PST


	PLASTIC (SARAN) WRAP When there is an emergency, no time to shop for an elastic wrap! plastic wrap can be used for an outer wrap to hold bandages to a wound until you can get to the vet. It can also help to wrap a limb wound to keep the bandage dry while bathing or walking out in wet grass. It sticks to itself and not fur. When a animal is poisoned, you can use plastic wrap to put over the muzzle when giving artificial respiration, to minimize your exposure to the poison. Cut a small hole in the plastic wrap and place it over the animals nostrils.

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Barked: Thu Mar 26, '09 5:32am PST


	WHEN/IF YOU SHOULD INDUCE VOMITING Here is something good to commite to memory, because when the time comes to use this info, there is no time! From "It's A Dog's Life" online newletter Induce Vomiting Only When It's Necessary, And Safe You just saw your dog swallow something that could make her sick. Do you induce vomiting right away? No. The first action you should take is to call your vet or emergency vet clinic for advice. Why? Vomiting will not help in some situations. In others, vomiting could harm her even more. What follows is a list of times when you should not induce vomiting in your dog. She has already started vomiting. She has lost consciousness, she has trouble breathing, or she has become too weak to stand. She has swallowed bleach, drain cleaner or a petroleum distillate product. These products will burn the esophagus and mouth parts again on the way up. (See Household Poisons to learn how to protect her from these caustic substances.) She swallowed the material more than two hours ago. Don't induce vomiting in this case because the substance has likely passed into the small intestine, at which point your dog can't vomit it back up. It's okay to induce vomiting in these two situations: 1) your vet has advised you to do it during your phone call; 2) your dog has ingested antifreeze (ethylene glycol) no more than two hours ago. How To Induce Vomiting Now that we know the When, let's work on the How of inducing vomiting in dogs who have swallowed something dangerous. You want to make it as easy as possible for your dog to vomit. Some food in her stomach will make it easier for her. Feed her a slice of bread or a few crackers. Or try a tablespoon or two of dog food if you don't feed her "human" food. Follow these steps. Into a small bowl, glass or mug, pour some three percent hydrogen peroxide from the bottle in your first aid kit (see Dog First Aid Supplies for more information on creating a dog first aid kit) or from the bathroom. Using the 10 cc syringe from the kit, draw up about 3 cc's for every 20 pounds (approximately 9 kg) of your dog's weight. Open her mouth slightly and insert the end of the syringe. Squirt a steady stream of the hydrogen peroxide toward the back of her mouth, which will force her to swallow it. Wait ten minutes. If she hasn't yet started to vomit, repeat steps 2 and 3. Call your vet immediately if she doesn't vomit after the second dose. You can also do this by using syrup of ipecac instead of hydrogen peroxide. Follow the directions closely. Do not give more than is recommended for your dog, and do not give it twice. Your dog may start vomiting and not be able to stop after you give her ipecac syrup, so be prepared to take her to the clinic for follow-up care. There are times when you should do this and times when you shouldn't. Become familiar with the reasons for each, and you'll be helping your dog get better, faster. Read about the signs of vomiting so you can describe your dog's symptoms accurately to your veterinarian. Learn more about causes of vomiting that can debilitate your dog. If she's already vomiting, you'll need to provide effective steps to help her.

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Barked: Sat Apr 4, '09 8:32am PST


	DOG BLOOD TYPING I didn't know that this could be done as a matter of course during a vet visit. Has anypup done this? On our next vet visit, we will try to find out more. From the "It's A Dog's Life" online newsletter: Do Dogs Have Different Blood Types? Blood Types Just like humans, dogs have different blood types. In fact, they have more blood types than people - approximately 8-12, which are referred to as Dog Erythrocyte Antigens or DEA followed by a number: DEA 1.1 positive, DEA 1.1 negative, DEA 1.2, DEA 3, DEA 4, DEA 5, and DEA 7. Imagine for a very brief moment that your dog is in an emergency situation. He may need to be given a blood transfusion as part of his recovery therapy. Dogs that are DEA 1.1 negative are "universal donors", which means that their blood is the safest to give to most other dogs through a blood transfusion, without causing a negative reaction. It's a good idea to have your dog's blood typed, in preparation for the quick cross-matching required in an emergency situation. Ask your veterinarian about this test, which uses a blood typing card to classify dogs as DEA 1.1 positive or negative, in order to indicate how blood reactive they are.

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Barked: Sun Apr 5, '09 5:45am PST


	CANCER SYMPTOMS Posted from another group, it's worthwhile going over the symptoms to keep them firm in our memory so they might let us get to a vet early enough for help. QUOTE: The #1 Killer of Dogs Over 2 Years of Age Posted by: "Susan" Sat Apr 4, 2009 3:45 pm (PDT) This was posted on another CP list - I thought the list of symptoms to look for was very good to read. Susan in Vermont Dog Crazy Newsletter The statistics are sobering - 1 in every 3 dogs will suffer from cancer. This makes cancer the #1 killer of dogs over 2 years of age. But cancer doesn't have to be a death sentence.... Statistics say that 50% of dogs with cancer will die from the disease, but the other half will live! When canine cancer is discovered early, the probability of a positive outcome is much higher. Routine veterinary care and wellness screenings are the best way to detect these kinds of problems early on, so make sure that your dog is seen by his vet on a regular basis. ... Early detection is vital to the successful treatment of canine cancer. Here are the Top 10 Signs of Cancer in Small Animals from the American Veterinary Medical Association: 1. Abnormal swellings that persist or continue to grow 2. Sores that do not heal 3. Weight loss 4. Loss of appetite 5. Bleeding or discharge from any body opening 6. Offensive odor 7. Difficulty eating or swallowing 8. Hesitation to exercise or loss of stamina 9. Persistent lameness or stiffness 10. Difficulty breathing, urinating or defecating UNQUOTE

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