 | DO socialize your pup. Preparing a young dog to live safely and happily in the world is of paramount importance. Show pup early in life how to interact with people, other dogs and new surroundings. A dog that is NOT FEARFUL will show you it's best and full personality!!! It is beautiful to see a dog interact with others when he has confidence and knows he belongs. Here are three articles about helping pup to get ready for life.
ARTICLE FROM THE AMERICAN DOG TRAINERS NETWORK
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THE IMPORTANCE OF
EARLY SOCIALIZATION
Most Timidity Is Preventable
When it comes to raising a confident well-adjusted puppy, an ounce of prevention is certainly worth a pound of cure. By socializing one's puppy early on with a variety of new and unfamiliar people (including calm and gentle children), on a regular and ongoing basis (for at least the first two years of the dog's life), you can help prevent serious behavioral problems such as shyness, timidity, and aggression from developing as the puppy matures. Once a puppy has all of his puppy shots (usually by 16 weeks of age), he should also be socialized with other friendly dogs, and acclimated to new environments beyond the owner's home and property, by being taken for regular daily walks on a leash.
Puppies raised in country and suburban environments should be gradually acclimated to city noises such as traffic noise, crowds of people and other everyday life scenerios early on. A weekly visit into town (beginning when the puppy is around 8 to 10 weeks of age) can be very helpful in preventing environmental phobias. In order to prevent exposure to disease, puppies with fewer than 3 or 4 series of vaccinations, should avoid contact with unfamiliar dogs, and be carried (in a Sherpa Bag, Snuggly or crate) to avoid contact with the sidewalk (or any other public areas where other dogs may frequent).
What To Do If Timidity Has Already Taken Hold
While preventive steps are best, should your puppy or adolescent dog already show signs of timidity, he should be gradually introduced to many new and unfamiliar people, until your puppy develops more confidence and trust. The following tips may be useful as a general guideline:
Visitors and passersby should avoid suddenly reaching out to pet your puppy, as allowing a stranger to approach a timid puppy right away is likely to increase the puppy's fear as well as his inclination to react defensively. In fact, when a timid puppy is first introduced to someone unfamiliar to him, the person should remain relatively still and quiet, avoid eye contact with the puppy, offer non-confrontational body language, and allow the puppy to approach the person and initiate contact. The puppy should never be forced or dragged over to meet someone he is fearful of.
Asking the visitor to crouch down near the floor, with their body facing at an angle AWAY from the puppy, and their hand slightly extended to the side while holding a small puppy treat, may help the puppy to gain enough confidence to approach. The puppy should be allowed to sniff the person, and to take the treat from their hand, without the person talking to or reaching towards the puppy. Even if the puppy continues to show fearfulness, the owner should remain upbeat, and resist the temptation to coddle or "poor baby" the puppy.
Once the puppy appears to feel a bit more secure, the visitor should slowly begin petting the puppy under the chin, and continue offering him small treats. These steps should be repeated with as many new people as possible, in as many new environments as possible, until the puppy develops sufficient confidence around new people.
Timidity Around Other Dogs
Fully immunized puppies who are timid around other dogs, should be socialized with other friendly, easy-going puppies (and dogs), begining with small to medium-sized puppies, then very gradually introduced to larger, more active ones, over a period of a few weeks. Observe both puppies' body language as the meet, interact, and get to know eachother. For especially timid or sensitive puppies, one-on-one puppy play sessions are usually best.
Supervised puppy play groups and puppy kindergarden classes may also be helpful, provided that bigger, more dominant puppies are not allowed to bully or intimidate the more timid ones. Puppies should be properly matched by size, age, dominance, activity level and temperament. Unsupervised group "free-for-alls" can in fact be very counter-productive.
Ideally, an experienced dog trainer or behaviorial consultant should supervise all play activity and be present to prevent any overly aggressive interactions between puppies.
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ARTICLE FROM DRS. FOSTER & SMITH
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Let us assume you are looking at a puppy that is between four and seven weeks of age. At this point, his behavior is a product of genetics and how the breeder has managed his activities and environment. The latter cannot be stressed enough. It forms the process known as 'socialization,' the development of interactive skills with members of its own and other species and learning to be comfortable in different situations and environments. The personality and behavior of a mature dog will be strongly affected by how it interacts with littermates, mother, people, and various external stimuli that it encounters during the first 12 weeks of life. The breeder will control a portion of this period and you the rest.
Relating to mother
From the mother, it receives the first stimulation to breathe, nurse, urinate, and defecate. She also trims the umbilical cord, cleans it several times a day, keeps the puppy warm, and ensures a safe and secure environment. She also provides disciplines when its behavior exceeds limits that only she understands. She supplies everything needed.
Relating to littermates
From his littermates, the puppy acquires additional knowledge on how to interact with members of his own species. Through their play, puppies learn about dominance and submission, get an introduction into mating behavior, and receive a wide range of stimulation for the development of their senses and physical abilities. Puppies that have no littermates or come from litters that were split up at too early of an age, typically have difficulty interacting with dogs later in life. Not knowing how to react when confronted by a member of their own species, they tend to be either overly shy or aggressive. Often, they fail miserably in multi-dog households.
Relating to people
At the Breeder: Through handling and play with humans during their first seven weeks of age (which all good breeders encourage,) the puppy learns to trust and interact with people. Without this involvement in their lives they tend to have difficulty forming relationships with or being comfortable around people. Dogs isolated from humans at an early age tend to become one-person dogs. They usually do not blend well into homes that contain multiple children or several adults. Obviously, these traits can be occasionally overcome, but it is not always easy.
In most situations, breeders provide what the puppies need for correct socialization with little effort expended. They keep the puppies until they are seven weeks of age before allowing them to go to their new homes. The mother is left with the puppies throughout most of this period. After four or five weeks, she will be allowed to spend time away from the pups, but she will still be with them for several visits each day. Good breeders love children if for no other reason than to have them around to play with their developing puppies.
In our own experiences of raising litters, we have our children start holding and petting the puppies when they are only a few days old. At three to four weeks of age, we let them play together in outdoor situations for an hour or more on a daily basis. And lastly, most breeders try to expose their pups to many different stimulating environments or situations. They should not be confined to a whelping box or pen until they depart for their new home. They need to learn to respond to many different situations to develop confidence in themselves. Their curiosity needs to be stimulated. If you ever decide to breed your own litter, all these same things will become your responsibility.
Relating to You and Others: We talked about how the breeder must provide the puppy with an environment that prepares it for life among humans, occasional encounters with other animals, and to be comfortable in a wide range of situations and environments. It is referred to as socialization. When the puppy is now in her final home, this process must continue as she is still developing behavioral patterns. In fact, these first few weeks in your home are some of the most important in the socialization process.
We recommend keeping the puppy’s schedule full for the first few days in your home in an effort to limit any loss it might feel from being separated from its littermates and mother. However, between seven and ten weeks of age there is an additional problem. At this time, most puppies go through a period in which they lose some of their self-confidence. Trust comes harder for them and things that we would expect them to be comfortable with suddenly elicit anxiety or fear. Where before they would boldly charge into a new situation, they now seem apprehensive. This could be anything from loud noises, new people, play that is a little too rough, going to a new place, etc.
Behaviorists have found that this has little to do with the change in where they are living or the separation from their siblings or mother. Even in cases in which the litter remains together, this same behavioral pattern is noted at this age. Do not overreact. Your puppy will mature through this and be just fine if you do your part. You do not want to become overly protective and isolate it from the outside world. We think it is better that during this two to three week period, you increase the range of its experiences by small steps, not giant leaps and bounds. Choose activities that can be controlled. Introduce the puppy to new people including children, but do not let thirty kids come screaming at her from all directions. Let her meet the neighbor’s dog, just not the rowdy one down the street. At approximate 12 weeks of age, this period comes to an end and most owners will see their puppies become bolder toward new people, animals, and experiences.
Continued socialization through the first year of life
From this point through at least one year of age, it is imperative that you make every effort to expand the puppy’s environment and expose her to new things. During this stage of their lives, puppies should be around as many different people and animals as possible. Take them with you when you go for a walk, shopping, or even to work. Encourage your children to bring their friends over to meet their new pet. Take an obedience or training course where they will meet other dogs. All of this is important.
Dogs that are isolated during their first year of life develop many problems. A few will become aggressive, but the majority are more likely to become overly shy or timid. They lack confidence in the presence of new people or situations. They cower in the presence of strangers. They jerk at their leash to get away from children or other pets. Forced to be in a new place, they may sit shaking behind you, drooling, and panting rapidly. In the worst case scenario, they may become fear biters. This is a behavioral pattern in which dogs, when encountering new people or pets they are afraid of, do not know how to react and simply attempt to bite the stranger. Once this develops, it can be very difficult to overcome.
The bottom line is: involve the puppy as much as you can in your daily activities. She will be well-socialized and happy. Besides, that is the reason you got her, right?
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INTRODUCTION TO PUPPY SOCIALIZATION
by Diana Guerrero
Copyright© 1996
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One of the most useful programs you can participate in are "puppy socials." These events are fun and relaxing ways of teaching your youngster how to have good canine manners.
Many people are surprised to find out their pups are learning in these classes since they are so fun and light. Every class is different and since trainers/behaviorists run their classes differently from one to another it is a good idea to go and check them out first.
As a behavior consultant and trainer I explain what is happening during the interactions and make sure that the pups are not put into dangerous situations and do not allow any aversive (negative) things to happen to them while they are there. There is occasionally some discipline if we get a delinquent in the group or if someone forgets their manners. All animals are screened for shots before they can participate and are introduced to the group first visually and then by limited contact before they come into the group.
Good programs will make sure that you have veterinary clearance before participating and that the puppy shots are done. Some vets will allow the pups to come when they are still pending their rabies since it is a developmental perk to participate in puppy socials.
Puppy development passes through different stages where they best learn certain skills. By reading up on the topic you can take advantage of that learning period. For instance, when they come home with you it is important to socialize them to humans and interactions in various situations. At that young age you should be careful to not expose them to other animals or places where they could pick up diseases communicable through other animals or their excrement but you should get them out into public and new types of areas in the first week or so. This will help you to have a dog that accepts environmental changes well.
Puppy social classes will come later when the dog ages more and finishes those critical shots. In those classes puppies will learn how to get used to other types of dogs and what proper social dog etiquette is. Depending on the ages and the environment the class takes place in, the first pups may be introduced to each other on leash. (My classes were held in a warehouse and in a enclosed baseball field.) As more people bring their pets, they are first allowed to watch from the perimeter fence and sniff noses with those inside. This way their reaction can be assessed as to how best to introduce them. Some animals are shyer than others and need more gradual or controlled introductions. When they eventually come in, all the other dogs are on leash or occupied elsewhere. Once introductions are done on a one to one basis or they introduce themselves around, then each of those pups kept under control are allowed to play.
Remember that there is more of a chance for trouble to start if the dogs are restrained. Owners often inadvertently teach the pups to become fearful or aggressive. Most interactions can be handled by the supervising trainer/behaviorist (before they happen) and the voices or positions of all the participating humans can also correct inappropriate behavior. Sharing of toys, water dishes, and varied interactions with other owners and their pets all contribute to a well rounded pooch. Age groupings can be important but it is the psychological maturity or lack of it that leads me to okay animals for the group.
Some people think having a dog or two at the home is enough to properly socialize a pup but it is not. Dogs in the home are part of the pup's immediate family. It is good for your pup to have friends of their own. They can and will learn critical social skills in a painless manner and often will wear themselves out in a short hour. This is great for the tired owner who can often enjoy the sleeping puppy for at least one day a week!
This social interaction also prepares them for some more serious training later since it is separate from a regular training class. Social activities and schooling should be distinguished for the pup. School is for learning and social time is for play, even though they do learn important skills in that social time. Playing after school is okay if it is distinguished and okay with the person running the training classes.
Some of the more valuable things learned in the puppy social is how to approach another dog, what is acceptable with other dogs, what other breeds look like, and how to behave around other people. Some pup's were afraid of an Afghan puppy when they first met, and the English Mastiff scared some pup's when his growth spurt occurred and his face changed! Most hybrids do not adapt well and I do not encourage breeding them. It is not a humane breeding but those animals bred as hybrids have a better chance at being workable if involved in these types of classes. It still is no guarantee however.
Group participation of owners that have elementary skill or coaching can easily assist with teaching puppies not to jump or in teaching the pups to come from play situations or high distraction. This work should always be done under a trainer's/behaviorist's supervision.
Good classes of this type are fun for the trainer/behaviorist because it lets them relax and get to know their students (both human and canine!), it also allows the owners to relax and enjoy the interactions with other people of like interests and a variety of dogs.
It is enjoyable to me since I can explain what the owners are seeing and help them to understand dog behavior in a broad manner, distinguish the differences in the breed traits, how to read behavior in different animals, and how to stop potential problems by voice or distraction. The more diverse the group is the more entertaining and educational it can be!
To find classes in your area you can check with local pet stores, feed stores, veterinarians, groomers, or other pet professionals. Also check in the phone directory yellow pages under "Dog","Pet" or "Animal". Look for someone who has a variety of classes, which should include puppy classes, dog classes and puppy socialization classes.
Puppy socialization and puppy training is a very specialized type of training. You want it to be fun and exciting. Puppy work is usually done in short sessions with play and quiet time in between. Since they don't have an attention span at a young age this is critical.
I love to start puppies in private classes in their own home when they are eight weeks old. They can be taught easily and prevented from developing bad habits. Puppy training classes should also cover things that the pup will need to know when it goes to visit the veterinarian or the groomer. If you can find a good trainer that has both puppy classes, older dog classes AND socialization classes consider yourself blessed! At any rate, have a good time since that is what your relationship with your pup should be all about.
UnquoteEdited by author Sun Feb 15, '09 5:57am PST
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Absolutely, Chloe!
The Dog Show: Who's Your Mama?
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