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Discuss ways to improve the quality of your dog's life and longevity through proper nutrition and a place for all of your questions and answers about feeding your pooch! Don't furget to check out Dogster's Dog Care Guide Book for information about feeding your dog! Bone Appawtite!
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Kuma
 Desperately cute- & stinky!
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| Barked: Sat May 17, '08 10:06pm PST | |  |  |  |  | I got greys at a very early age, too! I had grey at 15... I've been getting it professionally colored since I started my career. I used to go religiously every 10 weeks, but in the last two years, I've been letting the gap grow... I can't change my hair color too much because it wouldn't look right, so, I usually get highlights. I tried coloring it myself, but I made a bigger mess.
Sedona, I love this math problem. It took me back to the good old days and it proves that math was good and useful for something!!!  |  |  |  |  |
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Butterball-I- m adoptable!
 Im ADOPTABLE!!! | 
| Barked: Sat May 17, '08 10:26pm PST | |  |  |  |  | some semi perm ones can work, i think, but sometimes those greys can be STUBBORN!! I think it is really the ammonia and harsh chemicals that fries the hair, so I try to use ones that dont have it. Honestly, I hate my hair color, so Ive been either dying or highlighting since I was 15. I used to do it professionally, and spent a small fortune doing so, but then I married a military man, put my career on hold, and became "economical" lol now I do it myself, and have for the past 3 years. I only go the same color or darker, so I dont have to use something with harsh chemicals like ammonia (if you go lighter, you pretty much have to use something like that--so I was going to suggest highlights, but it can be pricey, and the upkeep can be too, and you cant use all natural kinda stuff).
Id look for some of the made for grey or says something about tough greys on it and just pick one with no ammonia. I dye my hair a lot, and the only time it looked fried was when I highlighted a lot, or went lighter. Usually going darker doesnt fry much, if at all, and right afterwards, the conditioner they give you, makes my hair the shiniest it has ever been, which does wear off, and then it just looks normal. I swear, never fried with dark (ok once, but I went like Elvira black, and im pale, and it had ammonia and was harsh stuff).
You could try the ammonia free semi perm stuff if you want first...and it will just wear off slowly and blend. As long as you stay close to your haircolor it wont be noticeable, even with dye, and will just fade out without a growth line--as long as it is almost the same color. If you go to a nice salon (like in a big city lol, or where they know alot about dye) you could try a rinse which can be clear or colored to add shine, but may not be THAT great for greys.
Wanna hear funny, my husband cannot see my greys, he swears he doesnt see it, even when i hold it up. lol he must need new glasses or to take those rose colored ones off....
wow was that long enough? BOL......Edited by author Sat May 17, '08 10:27pm PST
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Coco
 Mommy's adorable- shadow | 
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Andy
 "- Zzzzzzzzzzzz...- do I have to get- up ?" | 
| Barked: Sun May 18, '08 7:16pm PST | |  |  |  |  | Price should be figured by COST PER SERVING... just as you would analyze the cost per serving for your own food. An 8 oz cup is a measure of VOLUME... NOT weight. There are some kibbles that might weigh 12 oz WEIGHT for 8 oz VOLUME and some that may weigh 6oz WEIGHT for 8 oz VOLUME depending on the size and density of the kibble. 1 cup of 1/2 " kibble made from grains is going to take up twice as much room in that cup as 1 cup of highly dense meat based tiny kibbles. That's one reason why you have to feed 2-3 x more of the cheaper supermarket grain based foods than the higher quality meat based kibbles and why their caloric content is so low per cup.
When comparing pet foods you consider how many kcals/cup your dog needs , the number of cups of the food contains. Hypothetically, if you have a 50 lb dog that requires 850 kcals per day and you have BRAND A that contains 378 kcals/cup you would have to feed the dog 2.25 cups of food per day. Whereas... if you were feeding the same dog BRAND B that contained 450 kcals/cup you would need to feed 1.88 cups of food and if feeding a food like BRAND C which has 529 kcals/cup , you'd only feed 1.60 cups of food per day.
If BRAND A contains 160 cups of food per 40 lb bag and you have to feed 2.25 cups per day, that's 1.12 cups per meal so you're getting 142.4 servings per bag and would last 71.2 days.
If BRAND B contains 160 cups per bag and you're feeding 1.88 cups per day , that's .94 cups per meal so you're getting 170.22 servings per bag and would last 85.22 days.
If BRAND C contains 160 cups per 40 lb bag and you're feeding 1.60 cups per day or .80 cups per meal, your bag contains 200 servings per bag and would last 100 days.
If BRAND A costs $25.99 a bag , the cost per serving would be approximately : .18 cents per serving or .36 cents per day x 365 / 71.2 days for a total of 5.13 bags at a total cost of $133.24 /yr.
If BRAND B costs $37.99 a bag , the cost per serving would be approximately : .22 cents per serving or .44 cents per day x 365 / 85.22 days for a total of 4.28 bags at a total cost of $162.71 /yr.
If BRAND C costs $52.99 a bag , the cost per serving would be approximately : .26 cents per serving or .52 cents per day x 365 / 100 days for a total of 3.65 bags at a total cost of $193.41 /yr.
So... you can see from this example that even though BRAND C costs TWICE as much per bag as BRAND A..... brand C only costs .08 cents PER SERVING / .16 cents PER DAY / $60 PER YEAR more to feed for food that is 100 x the quality.
Overall judge food by PRICE PER SERVING and QUALITY OF INGREDIENTS. Why feed questionable quality foods like Purina, Science Diet, Iams, etc when you can be confident feeding high quality foods with high quality USDA inspected ingredients like Wellness, EVO, Fromms, etc that will guarantee your pet optimum health for a few dollars more ?? Also the better quality foods will not only save you at the checkout... they'll save you much much more in the kinds of savings you don't usually associate with food such as greatly reduced veterinary bills and costs for over the counter remedies for food induced problems like mites, yeast, hotspots, digestive upset, etc ....., total elimnination of flea and mite control, better overall immune system health, dental health, eye / skin /coat health and thus far less incidence of diet related illnesses and chronic disease. THAT should be your indicator... NOT just the price of food alone.
NOTE: one of the MOST expensive dry foods out there is Canine Caviar Split Pea and Venison. It's only available in 9lb bags for $21 per bag which makes the cost of 40 lbs $84. At a calorie count of 599 kcals/cup it would take 2.99 bags and cost approximately $251.31 /yr to feed a 50 lb dog.Edited by author Sun May 18, '08 7:41pm PST
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Sedona
 The Wise Cracker | 
| Barked: Sun May 18, '08 8:28pm PST | |  |  |  |  | Thanks Kuma. Volume is about perception. What I consider 1 level cup, you may consider it less than 1 level cup. What Daisy considers 1 level cup, I consider it more than one level cup. However, 1 pound of kibble is always 1 pound (unless your scale is whacky). I know we’re only talking a few pieces of kibble difference with the by volume measurement, but that’s enough to say that weight is more accurate in this instance. |  |  |  |  |
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Kuma
 Desperately cute- & stinky!
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| Barked: Sun May 18, '08 8:36pm PST | |  |  |  |  | I agree with you!!! I couldn't find the words to explain it, though.
It makes more sense to use weight for these calculations. When I look at the cost/month, it's about right for me since a small bag lasts me about 4-6 weeks, and my cost/month is slightly less than the cost of the small bag. Your threads are taking me back to the school classes of math and science. I love it! |  |  |  |  |
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