Your Thoughts on Headcollars

This is a place to gain some understanding of dog behavior and to assist people in training their dogs and dealing with common behavior problems, regardless of the method(s) used. This can cover the spectrum from non-aversive to traditional methods of dog training. There are many ways to train a dog. Please avoid aggressive responses, and counter ideas and opinions with which you don't agree with friendly and helpful advice. Please refrain from submitting posts that promote off-topic discussions. Keep in mind that you may be receiving advice from other dog owners and lovers... not professionals. If you have a major problem, always seek the advice of a trainer or behaviorist!

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Pocket Wolf
Barked: Sun Dec 2, '12 11:27pm PST 
I like to use a snoot loop brand halter with foxxy. She doesn't like it very much, but it helps!

The snoot loop came with a DVD on proper use which I really appreciated. The trick is firm and slow pressure. It's very difficult to go back to not using one, because the techniques for popping the leash for correction have absolutely got to go away with a halter. I suppose that's better for relieving human frustration. slow and firm movements de-esculate human frustration while trying to get the dog to do what you want and breaks a negative feedback loop.

If you are willing to realize that the halter is a training tool as much for you as for the dog, it is an ideal option. You might decide you like it for permamant use as well, but just be prepared for ignorant people to think it's a muzzle and act with fear around your dog. People are not used to seeing a halter on dogs the way they are used to seeing them on horses.

Really, aside from the fact that it does help foxxy focus and actually walk without pulling, I do prefer the halter for the same reasons putting one on a horse is good, except with Foxxy, the size ratio is inverted. She's the smaller one that *I* have the potential to injure rather than the horse being the larger one that has the potential to injure me if improperly led.

Head collars (harnesses) are not risky at all whe nit comes to collapsing trachea. the reason collapsing trachea becomes bad is that people don't put on a normal collar the right way for the dog. The proper position for a walking collar is right behind the head, which is where the head collar's collar is usually. At that position, it is at the top of the windpipe, and not on the more fragile larynx in the middle. it looks way too high to most people. There is no worry about putting stress on the trachea, because while the head collar also straps around the neck, the force that you apply is centered around the muzzle rather than the neck.

Edited by author Sun Dec 2, '12 11:35pm PST


Let's play tug!!
Barked: Mon Dec 3, '12 12:38pm PST 
I agree with everyone else. The key is that as much as humanly possible, Mozart doesn't get anything he wants when he's jumping. If he's jumping on you for attention, you become a boring, silent statue. You look away, and don't talk to, glance at, or touch him in any way. If he doesn't seem to find this boring and disappointing, you calmly, boringly, silently put him in his crate or the bathroom or you leave the room. As soon as he displays a behavior you like, such as standing with four on the floor, turning away from you, or sitting, he gets attention. Then try to make it calming touch- long, slow strokes, and low, soft "gooooood boooooooys" so that you don't ratchet the intensity back up and he starts jumping again. Think of the demeanor you would use when putting a baby to sleep. Similarly, if he's meeting another dog and he jumps, you turn and walk briskly away. He gets opportunities to meet other dogs when he approaches calmly, and the greeting ends as soon as he jumps.
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