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Agrgession upon being awakened

This is a place to gain some understanding of dog behavior and to assist people in training their dogs and dealing with common behavior problems, regardless of the method(s) used. This can cover the spectrum from non-aversive to traditional methods of dog training. There are many ways to train a dog. Please avoid aggressive responses, and counter ideas and opinions with which you don't agree with friendly and helpful advice. Please refrain from submitting posts that promote off-topic discussions. Keep in mind that you may be receiving advice from other dog owners and lovers... not professionals. If you have a major problem, always seek the advice of a trainer or behaviorist!

  
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Shiver Me- Timbers- "Charlie"

My Little Dog, a- heartbeat at my- feet.<3
 
 
Barked: Mon May 21, '12 11:34am PST 
I have to agree completely with Sanka. Puppy pads IN the house are NOT helping with house training her, at all. And not containing her somehow while you're gone, in a space that she considers 'her' area won't help you to house break her. You're trying to house train an adult dog with a past.. This isn't quite the same as a puppy - she's already learned these behaviors or had no choice previously but to use them and is more set in those ways. But you DO have to start from scratch, reward when she does her business outside, control her food and water intake and keep an eye on when she drinks or eats and learn how long it takes her before you need to get her outside for bathroom breaks. Minimum once every hour should really help. I got Charlie at a much older age not house broken too. He was kenneled when I wasn't home, and taken out every hour when I was, rewarded for going outside and I monitored his water and food intake so I could determine when I needed to get him out because he wouldn't tell me.

Are you just using dog cookies? Of course she's not going to accept those - most dogs will leave them for later, particularly because they're not "OMG, YUMMY, MUST EAT NOW" treats. Try cheese or a meat that she really likes and dice it up into tiny pieces - something really smelly and delicious that she won't save until later - you're more likely to get somewhere with rewarding the behaviors you want if you use something extremely enticing. Only dog I have ever known that was willing to accept dog cookies for reward was my moms Rottie pup and he'll eat ANYTHING.

Agree on pretty much everything everyone has said.

I think you need to sit and talk with the BF in a non-threatening way to try to tell him that he needs to get on the same page as you to get her happier and more secure. Something along the lines of, "So I've been really thinking about ways that we can improve this or help Daisy with that and think we should -" use 'we' and not 'you' as it's less confrontational or threatening and just tell him that you want to do it for the better of the dog.

Charlie is also very very anxious on car rides. In fact, it took me YEARS to get him okay on rides in the city - highway rides out of the city, he still panics. The other day, I decided to try something new. More potty breaks and his bed blanket in the back seat with him. Not only did he not cry once, but he was calm the entire drive, having the extra security of something that was specifically his, in the car with him. This was an all day drive back and forth for us, so it was a huge step in the right direction. If she has anything that smells like home and is hers, I'd try adding that to help calm her a little. Long walks prior to car rides can help with relaxation as well. And I also agree with Addy's suggestion. Lots of getting in and out of the harness and car with treats and no actual driving anywhere, until she's comfortable doing that.

With the waking aggression... I have to admit. I, myself, WILL bite the face off the person to wake me. That's how I am. My family learned quickly to leave me alone, even for the first hour after I'd wake and my S.O learned to come and cuddle me and just wait and not get in my face either. Alarm clocks being the exception of course. If she's sleeping, I recommend just leaving her be. It does sound like she's still pretty insecure and her having her own bed or crate to sleep in will probably help as someone else suggested. Don't wake her up by touching her or bothering her - if you need her up, call her name from a distance and wait for her to get up and about, but make it so that waking to her name is a good thing and reward her when she comes to you. Don't go to her or bother her while she's still waking.

Just my two cents. Hope things start improving. I'd definitely call for a vet check though just to be sure. wink
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Lisa

Always my angel.
 
 
Barked: Mon May 21, '12 1:02pm PST 
Ah, OK. That new information does change things a bit.

She has been house trained, she knows she is to go outside, and when I am home, we go out several times a day. I have started from scratch with her, and she is tons better than she was two years ago.

So one thing to keep in mind here is that dogs learn very specifically. They do not generalize well. So what that means is that when they learn something new, they tend to assume that what they've learned applies only to the specific circumstances under which they learned it. My parents' dog Keiko, for example, knows that she is not allowed to chase the two horses that they board over the summer. If the horses' owners decide to trade out one brown horse for another brown horse, however, she will chase the new brown horse. This is because she has not learned not to chase all brown horses (much less all horses) - she has simply learned not to chase those two specific horses. If they wanted her to leave all horses alone, they'd need to expose her to a lot more horses in a lot more situations and ask her to "leave it" with all of them. Same thing with going past the baby gate in the kitchen - they had to teach her not to jump over the gate, not to push under the gate, not to pull the gate away from the wall and go around the gate, etc. as if they were all separate things before she finally figured it out. Different dogs are a little different about this (some generalize better than others), but it's a good general rule to keep in mind.

So what this means, basically, is that I absolutely believe that Daisy knows not to potty in the house - when she's with you. I do not think she knows she's supposed to go outside when you're not there. If she did know it, then she wouldn't do it unless she had to. You need to treat housetraining while left alone as a completely different (though similar) skillset from housetraining while you are home. That is where you need to start over with her. And confinement is the absolute best way to ensure success in that area.

If you do want her to use a potty pad or doggy litter box in the house (and there are ways to do this that don't interfere with her going outside, especially if you're OK with her using it inside long term), then you still need to confine her to a small area where the designated potty area is the most logical place for her to go. Right now you're giving her too many options and she doesn't know what she's supposed to do. So if you don't like the crate, then you still need to find a way to confine her to a small area (not even a whole room unless it's maybe a small bathroom - just like a small section of a room - no larger than 5' x 5' would be good). If you keep giving her the run of the house when you're gone, you're going to keep having this problem. There's just no way around that.

When I'm home, Daisy is on my lap (makes it hard to play Mario Kart, or knit, but we work around it) and she is generally very relaxed and asleep.

OK, now to some advice you probably won't like, but that won't be as bad as you might think. You need to make access to your lap an invitation-only thing. This is for Daisy's good as well as yours and your boyfriend's. She needs to learn a command that invites her onto your lap (like "up" or something similar) and - and this is very important! - a corresponding command that gets her off your lap ("off" is a good one).

There are a couple of reasons for this. First of all, inviting her up lets you control the resource. It also engages her mind, which may help her to relax. This may help curb the resource guarding (growling and snapping) that she's doing around you. Inviting her up also reinforces for her that she will get access to your lap again once it's gone - she does not need to hoard you or warn others away.

Asking her to get off gives you and the BF a safe way to remove her from your space. Many dogs are more likely to growl/snap/react badly in response to touch. Getting her away in a touch-free way makes the process less stressful and more safe for all of you. AND if you consistently reward her for getting off of you, then she can come to see being off your lap as a good thing.

The "off" command is pretty straightforward, so I'm going to explain that first. Basically the way I've taught it is to get a treat Daisy really likes (liver, bacon, whatever). When she's on your lap, hold the treat such that in order to get it, she has to move off of your lap. Once all her paws are off your lap, tell her something like "Yes! Off!" and give her the treat. Practice this until it looks like she knows what to do when the treat comes out. Then start saying "Off" before holding the treat away for her. Once it seems like she's responding to the word "Off" instead of the presence of the treat, you can start practicing saying it before even getting the treat out. Over time (it will probably take several short sessions over several days), she'll figure it out.

Make sure that even after Daisy knows what "Off" means, you always reward her in some way for getting off your lap. Don't make getting off your lap a punishment, or she could backslide back into protecting that space. If you need her off because she's misbehaving, keep the situation as neutral as possible - just set her aside and walk away without a word.

Now as for inviting her onto your lap, you may want to start out being less strict about it at first. Or you may need to be very strict from the beginning. I would say start out being pretty strict about it, and if it seems to stress her out, then ease off a bit until she gets the hang of things. But you'll need to read Daisy to figure that out.

Other than that, the process is fairly similar. When Daisy gets onto your lap, tell her "Up!" (or whatever) and give her a treat. Once she seems like she's got the hang of it, then you can start cuing her before she gets onto your lap. Then comes the hard part - you need her to realize that she's not to get on your lap unless she hears the command. The most stress-free way to do this for her is to just keep an eye on her, and when she starts to head toward your lap, stand up. Try not to wait until she's almost on your lap, as that will frustrate her. You can probably tell when she's thinking about it - that's when you need to make the lap disappear. Once she's settled down and isn't really headed your way anymore, sit down and say "Up!" Then reward her for getting onto your lap. If she manages to get onto your lap uninvited, then just practice "off" with her and give her multiple treats for staying off your lap. Then tell her "up" again and let her back on your lap.

You can use the same steps for the bed, and I think you should right away. Let your BF be the one who lures her off and gives her treats, so that she sees his approach as a good thing (and so that he can have the power to get her off of things without touching her).

Have you tried giving her a stuffed Kong? If not, you should get one right away. Fill it with something you know she finds delicious (Keiko likes a mix of peanut butter, cottage cheese, cooked hamburger, fish oil, and a healthy coating of garlic powder) and give it to her only when she's on the floor by herself. Stuffed Kongs are great for this because not only are they a reward, but they're a great way to keep her occupied by herself for a while. Once she gets the hang of getting all the stuffing out, try freezing it to occupy her for even longer.
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Lisa

Always my angel.
 
 
Barked: Mon May 21, '12 1:05pm PST 
As for walks, the best thing I can think of is for you to find a way to make them more fun for her. That may mean incorporating games and treats (since it sounds like she doesn't care about toys?) or just more interaction with you in general.

If you're able when walking or hiking, have you tried just continuing on without her when she stops? It sounds like she's pretty attached to being right there with you, so that may be the best way to encourage her to continue.

Maybe someone else will have better ideas on that.
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Sanka

The ground is my- newspaper.
 
 
Barked: Mon May 21, '12 1:19pm PST 
What I'd try for walks is that instead of trying to get her to actually walk on leash, just find a nice spot somewhere to sit with her and let her take the world in. Simply viewing the world can be more draining that walking around in it, especially for fearful dogs.

No pressure to move. Go at her pace. If she seems curious about something, i.e. walking towards it, etc then you move where she's heading and let her lead. If not, then just enjoy the view with her. I have yet to meet a dog that never becomes curious about the world around them. It may take a while, but most get used to their little spot and start to venture out if they're given enough time to experience it.
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Ezra

1241819
 
 
Barked: Mon May 21, '12 5:05pm PST 
In terms of waking her, have you tried doing it by calling her name and not physically moving her at all? It sounds like your boyfriend is endangering himself by getting in her face to wake her up. I'd try and talk to him about the fact that he is being rude to Daisy, and putting himself at risk, when he could just call her name and wake her up. As I'm sure you're both aware, she is a living breathing being, not a toy, and so she needs to be treated with respect.

In terms of crate training her, is there a particular reason why you don't want to put her in her crate while you are not there?
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Daisy

1250030
 
 
Barked: Mon May 21, '12 5:13pm PST 
Thank you Lisa and Sanka for your detailed advice. Lisa, I think teaching her "off" and "up" will be just as stressful for me, because 99 times out of 100 I WANT her in my lap, so it will be hard to tell her not to be there, even if it's just for a second. lol smile No, I kind of do this anyway, just not very seriously.

I know she can "hold it" when she's in her crate while I'm at work, because when I first got her we did this. She is a pretty picky eater, but there are certain treats she likes. She's not a big toy player, but she is better at it than she used to be. She likes peanut butter, so a small Kong might be ideal.

I'll definitely give your ideas a try. smile
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Daisy

1250030
 
 
Barked: Mon May 21, '12 5:20pm PST 
Ezra, in spite of what's in both of our own best interests, and knowing that she doesn't really mind the crate, I don't like the idea of her being "trapped' in a crate. 1.) I worry that if there was a fire or something, she couldn't get out. I live out in the country, a long way from water and the volunteer fire dept, and that would be horrible. It's an irrational fear, but there it is. She just seems more vulnerable in the crate rather than out. 2.) and purely selfishly, I like to be greeted at the door by her sweet little jumpy self when I get home.
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Addy, CGC

Let's go for a- walk!
 
 
Barked: Mon May 21, '12 5:39pm PST 
She can hold it all day in her crate, but doesn't when she's out of her crate, because it's not at all obvious to her that she's supposed to. I have one dog who's fine all day out of her crate, because that's how she was raised, and one who needs to be crated during the day, because she was raised and lived with constant access to a dog door until she came to me at four years old. With no dog door, if I'm not there for her to ask to go out, she has no idea what to do except find an out-of-the-way spot and do it there.

Teaching "up" and "off" don't have to add to your stress at all. It doesn't mean you can't have her on your lap every bit as much as you want. It just gives you more control, and her clear cues so that she understands what's expected and what she can expect. Both my girls know these commands, and it makes everything easier for all of us.

You should seriously consider working on your own fears to be able to do what works for her. It may well not be forever; with patience and persistence, and spending all day holding because she's crated, she may learn the new behavior pattern, and be able to handle increasing amounts of time uncrated and unsupervised without pottying.
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lotus(little- angelgirl)

dont touch, only- look.
 
 
Barked: Tue May 22, '12 1:28am PST 
ha that sounds like my lotus...
she peed on pee wee pads for two years,just because she would not get house trained....
and she was fearfull and a biter as well
training her never worked...
she just stayed that way her whole life
lotus was a rat terrier and she only went for her walks because i had a pack with big dogs as well,so she felt save to walk with them
she was my problem dog sigh
sorry but i can't really give advice..lotus behavior never got any bettershrug
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Sanka

The ground is my- newspaper.
 
 
Barked: Tue May 22, '12 6:27am PST 
Think of it this way, dogs in general like dens. A crate is just that, a den. Cover it with a blanket, make it nice an cozy, and she'll be nice and comfy in her den. Some people turn on the t.v. or radio or play cds or even leave a fan running as white noise.

In the event of a fire, being loose in the house doesn't make that much of a difference. She's still in her "giant crate", aka the house. But don't worry about that. We can all get worked up over the smallest things and get these crazy ideas in our heads.

When I went on vacation without my dogs, it took me days to start actually enjoying my trip because I kept worrying about them and kept making up horrible scenes in my head. But of course, they were just fine.way to go
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